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OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread

Knight Shift

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May 19, 2011
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Forsythias are starting to bloom. Time to put down pre-emergent? Seems early.

Could not find the old lawn care thread, as the search function still seems broken.
 
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Forsythias are starting to bloom. Time to put down pre-emergent? Seems early.

Could not find the old lawn care thread, as the search function still seems broken.
Yes, when the forsythia bloom put down your pre-emergent. Watch nature and not the calendar. Last year I put mine down the second week of March, the couple years before that the first or second week of April (all we’re when the forsythia were in bloom—not buds, blooms). This year my soil temperature is significantly higher than the past few years—spring will be early at least as defined by what we see with plants, lawns, etc. Good luck!
 
Yes, when the forsythia bloom put down your pre-emergent. Watch nature and not the calendar. Last year I put mine down the second week of March, the couple years before that the first or second week of April (all we’re when the forsythia were in bloom—not buds, blooms). This year my soil temperature is significantly higher than the past few years—spring will be early at least as defined by what we see with plants, lawns, etc. Good luck!
And, as I understand, second treatment 8-10 weeks later (by June 1), and should be good for the year?

And don't seed until fall because pre-emergent will prevent new seed growth, right?

I have a large patch of crabgrass far in our back yard that we do not currently use that I want to seed in the fall, and plan is I will just drop the pre-emergent in this area and live with the dirt and seed it in the fall. Otherwise, the crabgrass will take hold and it will be difficult to seed, correct?
 
And, as I understand, second treatment 8-10 weeks later (by June 1), and should be good for the year?

And don't seed until fall because pre-emergent will prevent new seed growth, right?

I have a large patch of crabgrass far in our back yard that we do not currently use that I want to seed in the fall, and plan is I will just drop the pre-emergent in this area and live with the dirt and seed it in the fall. Otherwise, the crabgrass will take hold and it will be difficult to seed, correct?
The duration of control depends on the specific PM and the application rate. I use Dithiopyr and there are three levels of application: 3-6 months, 4-6 months, and 4-6 months on grass cut short like a golf course. I often do a split application with one when the forsythia blooms and another maybe late June. Seeding is best done in this part of the country late August or early September. So look at the label and active ingredient of your product and follow that. Generally speaking you should be able to do an application soon and then a light one in June if you want then seed late August or so.

You can seed with Mesotrione but that has about a 30 day coverage. So if you want you could seed and use Mesotrione then do another Mesotrione application in 30 days, then a more robust pre-emergent at the 60 days. Depends on if you want to seed and the application rate. You could try the Mesotrione and seed where you have crab grass or just use Dithiopyr or prodiamine or whatever and not seed until August. Good luck!
 
And, as I understand, second treatment 8-10 weeks later (by June 1), and should be good for the year?

And don't seed until fall because pre-emergent will prevent new seed growth, right?

I have a large patch of crabgrass far in our back yard that we do not currently use that I want to seed in the fall, and plan is I will just drop the pre-emergent in this area and live with the dirt and seed it in the fall. Otherwise, the crabgrass will take hold and it will be difficult to seed, correct?

Pre-emergent will not kill any existing crabgrass.....you will need to wipe it out prior to seeding. On a side note with the forsythia blooming I plan to put mine down this weekend.
 
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I do a split application of Scotts with Halts; first week of March to stop the Japanese Stiltgrass that infests my next door neighbor's adjoining lawn, and a second application about a month later to really hit the crabgrass. Then it is OceanGro or Milorganite about once every 4-6 weeks until the lawn goes dormant. I dethatched last fall so I'm expecting a weedy year this year.
 
Put crabgrass preventer down when soil temps at 1-2 inches (5-10 cm) reach 50 degrees. Right now soil temps are in 40's throughout NJ.

https://www.njweather.org/maps/nj-statewide-soil-temperatures-5cm

soiltemperature5cm720.png


Also you can enter your zip code here and check:

http://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature

Also, do you spring cleanup of your yard first before putting down pre-emergents. If you put it down first and then rake or aerate you disturb the barrier created.
 
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I do a split application of Scotts with Halts; first week of March to stop the Japanese Stiltgrass that infests my next door neighbor's adjoining lawn, and a second application about a month later to really hit the crabgrass. Then it is OceanGro or Milorganite about once every 4-6 weeks until the lawn goes dormant. I dethatched last fall so I'm expecting a weedy year this year.
I’m going to have to take a ride to get Oceangro. It’s half the cost or less than Milorganite, which is up to about $15 for the 36# bag for me. Japanese stiltgrass is tough. If you end up having a hard time keeping up with it I’ve had good success with fenoxaprop as a post emergent and a good pre-emergent. My neighbor has a ton of Japanese Stiltgrass in a wooded area that boarders my property and it kept trying to creep in. It’s an annual battle.
 
I’m going to have to take a ride to get Oceangro. It’s half the cost or less than Milorganite, which is up to about $15 for the 36# bag for me. Japanese stiltgrass is tough. If you end up having a hard time keeping up with it I’ve had good success with fenoxaprop as a post emergent and a good pre-emergent. My neighbor has a ton of Japanese Stiltgrass in a wooded area that boarders my property and it kept trying to creep in. It’s an annual battle.
I don't know where you're located, but the Ace Hardware in Yardville (aka Yardville Supply) carries Oceangro. It can get hard to find sometimes, unless you're in the know.

I've had decent success using Dismiss against the stiltgrass, but it is expensive stuff. I've beaten it back over the past 2 years so now it is just a border war. The dethatching is sure to have dug up all sorts of crap though, so we'll see.
 
Okay, I have a problem with this Japanese Stiltgrass which is coming in from the woods. Any suggestions on what I can use as a pre-emergent to kill it?
 
Okay, I have a problem with this Japanese Stiltgrass which is coming in from the woods. Any suggestions on what I can use as a pre-emergent to kill it?
See above. Dithiopyr, prodiamine, or other strong pre-emergent and Fenaxorop as the post emergent to kill it. Likely a multi year battle. And yes, often comes from the woods.
 
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Yes, when the forsythia bloom put down your pre-emergent. Watch nature and not the calendar. Last year I put mine down the second week of March, the couple years before that the first or second week of April (all we’re when the forsythia were in bloom—not buds, blooms). This year my soil temperature is significantly higher than the past few years—spring will be early at least as defined by what we see with plants, lawns, etc. Good luck!
Warmer soil temps is right. It seems like we missed winter this year. Part of me is anxious to get out there, but I know as soon as I have to mow every week again I’m going to wish it was January
 
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Okay, I have a problem with this Japanese Stiltgrass which is coming in from the woods. Any suggestions on what I can use as a pre-emergent to kill it?
You could use the Scotts with Halts, or the equivalent product from Jonathan Green, but you have to get it down early, like this weekend or this week. Japanese Stiltgrass germinates early, which is one of the reasons it is so invasive. And yeah, it will take a few years battling, but laying down pre-emergent in spring will set the odds in your favor.
 
Nutgrass. That’s my curse. My lawn looks amazing until July when that stuff starts coming out

Sedgehammer or Dismiss will attack the hell out of sedges like nutsedge and kyllinga but not destroy your turf. Follow instructions closely. I had a lawn full of kyllinga, but I've won that war after 2 years of Dismiss applications. The stuff is expensive, but a bottle will last you a while, unless you've got a big piece of property.

You can buy it here: www.domyown.com
 
I don't know where you're located, but the Ace Hardware in Yardville (aka Yardville Supply) carries Oceangro. It can get hard to find sometimes, unless you're in the know.

I've had decent success using Dismiss against the stiltgrass, but it is expensive stuff. I've beaten it back over the past 2 years so now it is just a border war. The dethatching is sure to have dug up all sorts of crap though, so we'll see.
I’m in Piscataway. Ferris Farms in East Brunswick had it but I think they’ve closed the business. Think there is a place not too far, or closer to the shore
 
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What national company is generally the best for us guys too lazy to put down whatever, whenever ? Large yard.
 
Forsythias are starting to bloom. Time to put down pre-emergent? Seems early.

Could not find the old lawn care thread, as the search function still seems broken.


Go to Site One in Lakewood (old John Deere/Lesco)and talk to the manager. 2 of my friends who are in the business has sworn by them for years. Or just call me Lol.
 
What national company is generally the best for us guys too lazy to put down whatever, whenever ? Large yard.
I’d probably try to find a licensed local company that has a good reputation. I do my own lawn care and have no direct experience with services but a rep from a large national company was going house to house a couple summers ago and after talking with him for five minutes I realized he didn’t know what he was talking about. Not that he was representative of others, though. I have some neighbors that use a large national company and I am sometimes puzzled by the timing of applications and methods. I think it can vary quite a bit depending on the technician.
 
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A great product Is called Screamin Green by Clarus. It’s a 50% slow release so you’re getting a good feeding for 3 months. Check out their website. It’s no joke.

I work at a landscape supply company. I’d be glad to answer anyone’s questions
 
I want to use a tiller on a few large sections of beaten up lawn (impacted by 2019 construction) throw down top soil and plant new grass seed.

Considering weather/temps, when best to do this? I’d like sooner the better but worried about a couple cold late March nights
 
I do a split application of Scotts with Halts; first week of March to stop the Japanese Stiltgrass that infests my next door neighbor's adjoining lawn, and a second application about a month later to really hit the crabgrass. Then it is OceanGro or Milorganite about once every 4-6 weeks until the lawn goes dormant. I dethatched last fall so I'm expecting a weedy year this year.

Rutgers Ag has this Fact Sheet about Japanese Stiltgrass and how to control it, here.
 
I want to use a tiller on a few large sections of beaten up lawn (impacted by 2019 construction) throw down top soil and plant new grass seed.

Considering weather/temps, when best to do this? I’d like sooner the better but worried about a couple cold late March nights
It’s ok to do it now. But might be best to wait until April or so. Use starter fertilizer and a soil amendment
 
I was thinking of tearing up a piece of lawn and just throwing wild flower seeds down like they do on the parkway - Any thoughts?
 
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I was thinking of tearing up a piece of lawn and just throwing wild flower seeds down like they do on the parkway - Any thoughts?
Not a bad idea. Just know that if you seed now, you most likely won’t see flowers until next year
 
Ok- so here is a question a little off the topic of pre emergence- I’m moving into a rental home next week in franklin lakes. Great neighborhood, older but really nice ranch, completely updated inside. Problem is, they left leaves on the lawn all winter and as they cleared it at our insistence, it left a ton of bare spots. Enough where the lawn will be somewhat embarrassing. Owner is not that concerned and will not go out of her way. But I have to live there- I know fall is when you need to seed but what is the best bet if I need to seed in the spring???
 
Ok- so here is a question a little off the topic of pre emergence- I’m moving into a rental home next week in franklin lakes. Great neighborhood, older but really nice ranch, completely updated inside. Problem is, they left leaves on the lawn all winter and as they cleared it at our insistence, it left a ton of bare spots. Enough where the lawn will be somewhat embarrassing. Owner is not that concerned and will not go out of her way. But I have to live there- I know fall is when you need to seed but what is the best bet if I need to seed in the spring???
At bare minimum, don't put down pre-emergent herbicide where you plan on throwing down seed. It won't grow. You *can* seed in springtime, it will just take more diligent care to get the seedlings strong enough to withstand an early summer. Got to water every day.
 
Ok- so here is a question a little off the topic of pre emergence- I’m moving into a rental home next week in franklin lakes. Great neighborhood, older but really nice ranch, completely updated inside. Problem is, they left leaves on the lawn all winter and as they cleared it at our insistence, it left a ton of bare spots. Enough where the lawn will be somewhat embarrassing. Owner is not that concerned and will not go out of her way. But I have to live there- I know fall is when you need to seed but what is the best bet if I need to seed in the spring???
As you note, late summer is the best time to seed around here. Spring seeds will grow but the question is if they become established enough to survive the summer. You can seed with Mesotrione (brand name Tenacity or Scott’s starter with Mesotrione). This only gives you pre-emergent protection for about 30 days. So you could seed and put down Mesotrione, then in 30 days another application of Mesotrione, then in 60 days a more robust PM such as Dimension or Barricade. Read the label for any of these and follow directions.

Edit: by the way, if you haven’t used Mesotrione (tenacity) before you’ll get some bleaching of undesirable grasses. They’ll white for a bit, that’s the way the A.I.works.
 
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