ADVERTISEMENT

OT: growing grass

JMORC2003

All Conference
Dec 22, 2008
4,593
2,522
113
Rather than take over the other weather thread, let’s talk lawns. There’s usually a good discussion, as well as a few lawn experts here.

I wrapped up a reno last spring that completely destroyed my lawn front and back. Put in new dirt and seeded, had decent results. Plan now is to seed again this spring and again in the fall to get that sucker thick. I also have a few spots unaffected by the renovation, but are getting new dirt and seeds (moved plant beds, put in a fence, etc).

I’ve used seed aid as cover in the past, but have had better results in patches with salt hay. I’m going all salt hay this time. Fun project for me and the kids.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PeaceLove RU
I wouldn’t plant know there is a chance of snow.....[roll]
 
Rather than take over the other weather thread, let’s talk lawns. There’s usually a good discussion, as well as a few lawn experts here.

I wrapped up a reno last spring that completely destroyed my lawn front and back. Put in new dirt and seeded, had decent results. Plan now is to seed again this spring and again in the fall to get that sucker thick. I also have a few spots unaffected by the renovation, but are getting new dirt and seeds (moved plant beds, put in a fence, etc).

I’ve used seed aid as cover in the past, but have had better results in patches with salt hay. I’m going all salt hay this time. Fun project for me and the kids.


These previous thread might prove helpful:

https://rutgers.forums.rivals.com/t...zing-the-lawn-2016-thread.80232/#post-1695867

https://rutgers.forums.rivals.com/threads/ot-timing-of-crabgrass-pre-emergent.121950/#post-2695847
 
I wouldn’t plant know there is a chance of snow.....[roll]
You can put down grass seed and have snow sit on top of it. The snow won't hurt the seeds. The crabgrass that comes up this spring is from seeds that dropped last fall and wintered over, or from many autumns ago but were unearthed by digging, squirrels, etc.
 
Rather than take over the other weather thread, let’s talk lawns. There’s usually a good discussion, as well as a few lawn experts here.

I wrapped up a reno last spring that completely destroyed my lawn front and back. Put in new dirt and seeded, had decent results. Plan now is to seed again this spring and again in the fall to get that sucker thick. I also have a few spots unaffected by the renovation, but are getting new dirt and seeds (moved plant beds, put in a fence, etc).

I’ve used seed aid as cover in the past, but have had better results in patches with salt hay. I’m going all salt hay this time. Fun project for me and the kids.
You are wasting your time . . . . . Wait until October.
 
Sounds like you are doing the right thing.

OT on original post. Did anyone ever successfully remove ground ivy?

I've tried a number of different things and the only things that seem to work are killing everything and reseeding (which i won't do) and an extended drought will kill it as well. All local removal remedies have failed.
 
I agree with others that late summer to early fall is a better time to seed than spring. Rutgers turf pros suggest seed down in our area late August to early September. I agree with them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KevH
After 30 years of home ownership I now hate everything having to do with a house.

I want to go live in a trailer.

Ditto. What a time and money pit. Don't get me wrong. There's nothing like a beautiful lawn or the satisfaction and pride of a well done DIY project, but I just don't have the same enthusiasm for it that I once did. As my kids approach college, the idea of a condo or townhome is really appealing.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: RUaMoose
There's nothing like a beautiful lawn -- but there are many better things. Like all the fun stuff you could be doing if you didn't spend so much time on your beautiful lawn.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KevH
I agree with others that late summer to early fall is a better time to seed than spring. Rutgers turf pros suggest seed down in our area late August to early September. I agree with them.

This. Spring seedlings don't have enough time to establish mature root systems. They'll come in fine and look great until the dog says of summer kick in. Where mature grass may go brown then bounce back, grass planted in the spring will often just die.

I got lucky once when I overseeded in the spring because we had a pretty mild summer that year. Plus, the established lawn helps protect the new grass plants. But, planting on bare soil can be risky.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: phs73rc77gsm83
This. Spring seedlings don't have enough time to establish mature root systems. They'll come in fine and look great until the dog says of summer kick in. Where mature grass may go brown then bounce back, grass planted in the spring will often just die.

I got lucky once when I oversexed in the spring because we had a pretty mild summer that year. Plus, the established lawn helps protect the new grass plants. But, planting on bare soil can be risky.
You pivoted from topic to topic very quickly there...
 
I agree with others that late summer to early fall is a better time to seed than spring. Rutgers turf pros suggest seed down in our area late August to early September. I agree with them.

This. Spring seedlings don't have enough time to establish mature root systems. They'll come in fine and look great until the dog says of summer kick in. Where mature grass may go brown then bounce back, grass planted in the spring will often just die.

I got lucky once when I oversexed in the spring because we had a pretty mild summer that year. Plus, the established lawn helps protect the new grass plants. But, planting on bare soil can be risky.

Again, this is great advice, but some of us NEED to seed NOW, not in the fall. I have a large patch of dirt for a backyard. Not going to leave it like that until late August/early September.
 
Ditto. What a time and money pit. Don't get me wrong. There's nothing like a beautiful lawn or the satisfaction and pride of a well done DIY project, but I just don't have the same enthusiasm for it that I once did. As my kids approach college, the idea of a condo or townhome is really appealing.
The idea of neighbors too close for comfort will make me happy to seed and maintain my lawn. Can't stand condo/townhouse living.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RUforester72
Op, do you like a thick lush lawn, or do you prefer tightly mowed neat lawn?
 
The idea of neighbors too close for comfort will make me happy to seed and maintain my lawn. Can't stand condo/townhouse living.

Not being able to call/harass the landlord kind of sucks but well worth it to have your own space to do with what you please. Worst of the worst has to be HOA communities -- a house and property that's yours but someone else tells you what to do with.
 
Again, this is great advice, but some of us NEED to seed NOW, not in the fall. I have a large patch of dirt for a backyard. Not going to leave it like that until late August/early September.

I saw earlier a recommendation for a tall fescue, would go with this, OR if you could find an annual rye grass until a better planting season this might be an option. My expertise is working with a landscaper for two summers between years at RU, so I'm NO EXPERT. But, I have a fairly decent sized lawn with few bare spots (courtesy of a new lab puppy). For what its worth, my old boss used to say if seeding in spring, getting it down before a light snowfall was good; seed got soaked so it set into soil, and there is nitrogen in the snow.

Hope it helps.
 
Not being able to call/harass the landlord kind of sucks but well worth it to have your own space to do with what you please. Worst of the worst has to be HOA communities -- a house and property that's yours but someone else tells you what to do with.
Been there. Had to take them to arbitration just to sell my house, as they would not let me sell to my neighbor based on some idiotic interpretation of their rules.
Maybe we need a new thread on HOA?
 
  • Like
Reactions: fsg2
Again, this is great advice, but some of us NEED to seed NOW, not in the fall. I have a large patch of dirt for a backyard. Not going to leave it like that until late August/early September.
No problem. You can spring seed but it probably won’t have as good results as a fall seeding. I’d look at a perennial rye or turf type tall fescue, both germinate faster than Kentucky Blue Grass. Fine fescue does too and is good in the shade, although I personally don’t like the blade of fine fescue. You could do a mix of those that might or might not include KBG.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KevH
Been there. Had to take them to arbitration just to sell my house, as they would not let me sell to my neighbor based on some idiotic interpretation of their rules.
Maybe we need a new thread on HOA?

Could be a classic and would be fun to see how many new threads we can spin off that weather thread : )

Happy my friend lives in one and told stories before I ever started looking. Was an immediate deal breaker when I was house shopping. There are a few a couple blocks away and just don't get any appeal. Neighborhoods are no nicer and just seems like hassles.
 
You are wasting your time . . . . . Wait until October.

Did that last October. Pennington seed , starter fertilizer . Watered twice a day for 3 straight weeks. Nothing came up. Will try Scott’s in Fall / October.
 
Sounds like you are doing the right thing.

OT on original post. Did anyone ever successfully remove ground ivy?

I've tried a number of different things and the only things that seem to work are killing everything and reseeding (which i won't do) and an extended drought will kill it as well. All local removal remedies have failed.
Previous owners of my house either loved ivy or hated yard work, there was a bunch in multiple spots on my property. Worst was a 6 foot ring or thick ivy around the patio. First thing i did was mow that crap out on the lowest setting to chop up all the leaves. Then just hand pulled all the roots. Had to have a few goes at it, the roots extend everywhere, but eventually got it all out. I ended up putting a few pieces of sod over the now bare area as a band aid.
 
1200px-Glechoma_hederacea%2C_Hondsdraf_%281%29.jpg


Thanks for the reply. This is ground ivy. Worst weed i've ever seen. Just won't go away.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KevH
What's the consensus for putting down lime and pre emergent and over seeding right now ..? Process for doing all 3 or can you only do certain ones close together time wise?
 
What's the consensus for putting down lime and pre emergent and over seeding right now ..? Process for doing all 3 or can you only do certain ones close together time wise?

If your soil's ph is off and you need lime, I think you can put it down any time. As for seeding in spring, see above. But, if you use a pre-emergent herbicide, make sure you use one that's designed for newly seeded lawns. Otherwise, it'll keep your grass from growing right along with the weeds. I used one of those types years ago with only so-so results. Haven't tried that approach since. One more reason I resist seeding in the spring. Hard to keep weeds at bay and grow new grass at the same time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: phs73rc77gsm83
1200px-Glechoma_hederacea%2C_Hondsdraf_%281%29.jpg


Thanks for the reply. This is ground ivy. Worst weed i've ever seen. Just won't go away.


Triclopyr will kill ground ivy. Might take two or three applications. It is the Active ingredient in Orthos Weed be gone “purple” cco.You can get it at Lowe’s or Home Depot but make sure it is the one with triclopyr.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RUforester72
Okay, got a major moss problem in the back area I recovered 2-3 years ago from the forest: complements of the landscapers running past my barriers and ripping up the new grass with their machines. I raked it out as best I could last Sunday, but anything I can do to get rid of it before reseeding the area?
 
What's the consensus for putting down lime and pre emergent and over seeding right now ..? Process for doing all 3 or can you only do certain ones close together time wise?

You can lime and seed at the same time not a problem. But you cannot seed at the same time as pre-emergent, it will prevent the seeds from germinating. If you put the pre-emergent down you will need to wait 6 weeks before seeding. Pre-emergent should be down already, I usually get mine down around the 3rd week of March if weather permits. I do not use Scotts products, but if you look at their site it also says the pre-emergent should be down no later than the first week of April.
 
What's the consensus for putting down lime and pre emergent and over seeding right now ..? Process for doing all 3 or can you only do certain ones close together time wise?

Preemergence should go down about when forsythia is in bloom. So just about now. Doesn’t hurt to be early, though. For seeding, you can use Mesotrione at seed down, which has about a 30 day protection barrier. Dythiopyr (Dimmension), prodiamide (Baricade) have a four to six month barrier depending on the amount you use. Lime any time but I’d get a soil test from Rutgers to confirm what you need.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ATIOH
Okay, got a major moss problem in the back area I recovered 2-3 years ago from the forest: complements of the landscapers running past my barriers and ripping up the new grass with their machines. I raked it out as best I could last Sunday, but anything I can do to get rid of it before reseeding the area?

I’d get a soil test from Rutgers. They’ll recommend soil amendments. You can try to kill the moss but if there are underlying soil problems it’ll just come back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KevH
You can lime and seed at the same time not a problem. But you cannot seed at the same time as pre-emergent, it will prevent the seeds from germinating. If you put the pre-emergent down you will need to wait 6 weeks before seeding. Pre-emergent should be down already, I usually get mine down around the 3rd week of March if weather permits. I do not use Scotts products, but if you look at their site it also says the pre-emergent should be down no later than the first week of April.

What do you use ? I know Scott’s prices have gotten beyond ridiculous.
 
I’d get a soil test from Rutgers. They’ll recommend soil amendments. You can try to kill the moss but if there are underlying soil problems it’ll just come back.
How does one go about getting a soil test from Rutgers? Is there a kit or something? Thanks.
 
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT