Exactly why we decided to do sod. Plus, we are still not quite ready for the grass/sod--will be at least another 2 weeks.
Give it another week. Mine didn't come up until 13 days after being laid down. Make sure not to overwater.
Do you have built in sprinklers? Sod without irrigation is a difficult thing as it is less resilient due to more shallow root system. I might to go that route eventually, but for now I’ve trying to avoid the expense if it can be done another way. Also my front yard gets brutal afternoon sun so it roasts in the dog days of summer.
Air temps and lack of sun keeping soil temps down. I may need to throw down more crabgrass pre-emergent.
Ok that’s comforting. But does this mean that the seeds on the ground are good as dead at this point? How long can they stay wet and eventually still sprout. I got the big bag that was $65
Your seeds haven't germinated yet because it's been so damned cold. As I said above, give it another week.
@RU848789 still has a foot of snow in his yard in Metuchen. No grass seed there until late July.
I know. I’m just trying to decide if I should keep up my watering routine until it gets warm again
I think keeping the soil moist is important regardless. I am going to call the cust. service # tomorrow to ask if I should (gently) rake the "crusty" surface now existing. Worse case rake it and throw down a little more seed.
Here's what I had Saturday after 3 weeks:
How do you cover your fig tree? Do you prune it back in the fall? I can never get 100% survival on the branches. Not really a problem since they grow so fast once the heat hits, but it is a little disheartening to have dead limbs after putting all the effort to cover in the fall.
I usually use one of the custom blends from my local farm and garden. I’ve had success in the past with the sun/shade mix from The Yard in Scotch Plains. This time I tried the sun/shade stress mix from Bartells in Clark.
Heavy pruning in the fall like late November early December. I mean cut it back at least a 1/3, it'll come back with a vengeance. Look for the buds/shoots facing the direction you want it to go next year and cut 1" above it. This is the time to train the tree, anything growing inward cut right off. I do the same for all my fruit trees(February), as you know you're not hurting the tree but promoting growth.
Yeah I saw some less than positive comments here. Guess what...no surprise..little guys are sprotting tonight after 80 degrees. Yeah!
Yup, pretty much what I expected. The cold really delayed their germination, that's why I didn't see anything coming up until day 13.
definitely. My wife makes fun of me for how diligent I am about watering, but with the time money and effort put into it so far, turning on the sprinkler is well worth it. I left the routine slip last summer which is why I had large sections of the new lawn crap out.
oh absolutely. I'm on a rotation of 1 watering for each 3 beers I drink. (and no, that's not the source for the watering lol)
That's exactly how I water my trees. New fruit trees or our Leyland Cypress privacy wall we just planted this spring get light watering everyday to keep roots damp. My Rutgers Grad Arborist told me once the roots dry out and close up they're done so always keep it damp. Then once established after two years a deep watering twice a week. Except stone fruits only once a week, as they are drought resistant and too much water can damage them. Seems to work real well.
