OT: Timing of Crabgrass Pre Emergent.
- Thread starter THERAC
- Start date
Not sure but it Might already be too late in New Jersey. I put Scott's crabgrass down last Saturday.
The principles discussed in the thread last year still hold. Soil temps are a bit behind last year. Last year forsythia was in bloom in my yard on March 10 so I put dithiopyr down. That was as early as I remember. I put it down a week ago this year. The forsythia will probably not bloom as much as usual this year due to the snow damaging some buds, at least in my yard. It's not too late, especially for dithiopyr, which is both a both preemergent and to some extent a post emergent.
Is there a Home Depot/Lowes product that contains dithiopyr? I see a product on Amazon, and it is only sprayable?
Amazon product ASIN B00C4Y24IG
I was being facetious about last year vs. this year. What do you recommend to prevent crabby posts?
Is the crap they sell at Home Depot OK?
It's 19-0-7 Dimension Crabgrass Preventer. I understand the 19-0-7 is N-P-K. It's higher in potassium than what you use. That OK?
I put a brand called Lesco 19-0-7 down a the week before the snowstorm. It is a pre emergent/fertilizer, I read once it starts to emerge it is useless thats why I put it down early. Last year I think I put it down to late but we didnt have the same tempature swings we had this year. Hopefully I didnt do it to early....Time will tell
u should be fine... NOW is the time to put Pre-emergent down... Scotts Step 1 Or Turfbuilder with Halts.. If ur seeding use Scotts step 1 for seeding.. Do not use Halts or your grass seed will not germinate... Also now is the time to put down Grub killer...That can be put down with your fertilizer
this coming Wed night after 6pm. Then again I like to piss outside at night and I just find the spots I want to kill over the summer.
Dimension has dithiopr in it. You can get it at Home Cheapo.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/LESCO-50-lb-19-0-7-Dimension-Crabgrass-Preventer-080311/100185665
That is fine.....I used Dimension 18-0-4. Nitrogen is for green and growth. Phosphorus and Potassium for fruit, flower and roots.
I agree with Rock, Golfer, Postman and Devil, and others that say the Lesco with Dimmension is fine. I spray but the granular is fine too. DImmension (main a.i. Dithiopyr) is a preemergent but has some early post emergent protection as well so it probably gives you a broader window for application.
Has anyone asked themselves why lawns have crabgrass and weeds? Weeds are a sign of poor soil health. They are nature's scabs. Nature is attempting to heal the soil by putting a living root in the ground and covering bare spots as fast as possible.
We have to remember that the soil is alive. All synthetic fertilizers (which are derived from natural gas), herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides destroy soil biology, destroy soil structure, and decrease water infiltration and retention. The longer these products are used, the worse the health of the soil becomes. Why do we have to keep reapplying these products year after year? Synthetics don't fix the problems. It is not a sustainable practice, and the soil it telling us something.
So instead of feeding the plant, we should be feeding the soil. The plant and the soil are one. If anyone is interested in adopting these methods, i'd start by:
1. Applying compost 2X/year to their lawns. Compost will increase the microbial life of soil, feed soil biology, reduces soil temperature in the heat of the summer, and helps retain moisture to decrease drought stress, and reduce irrigation needs. Depending on the amount you need, you can make your own, or get a delivery. Some municipal recycling centers have it available for free.
2. Seed in the spring and fall with your compost application, until your lawn is established.
3. Seed using a high diversity of grasses that are native to the climate.
4. Cut your lawn high, and never bag clippings
5. Try to disturb the soil as little as possible.
6. As tempting as it is to pull weeds, don't. The weeds are there for a reason. Your soil is sick and nature is trying to repair it. Weeds are better than bare soil. Rather, you should cut them to the ground as low as possible before they turn to seed. You want a living root in the ground at all times. Living roots feed the soil.
As you can tell, I'm passionate about soil. If anyone has any questions, i'll do my best to help.
We have to remember that the soil is alive. All synthetic fertilizers (which are derived from natural gas), herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides destroy soil biology, destroy soil structure, and decrease water infiltration and retention. The longer these products are used, the worse the health of the soil becomes. Why do we have to keep reapplying these products year after year? Synthetics don't fix the problems. It is not a sustainable practice, and the soil it telling us something.
So instead of feeding the plant, we should be feeding the soil. The plant and the soil are one. If anyone is interested in adopting these methods, i'd start by:
1. Applying compost 2X/year to their lawns. Compost will increase the microbial life of soil, feed soil biology, reduces soil temperature in the heat of the summer, and helps retain moisture to decrease drought stress, and reduce irrigation needs. Depending on the amount you need, you can make your own, or get a delivery. Some municipal recycling centers have it available for free.
2. Seed in the spring and fall with your compost application, until your lawn is established.
3. Seed using a high diversity of grasses that are native to the climate.
4. Cut your lawn high, and never bag clippings
5. Try to disturb the soil as little as possible.
6. As tempting as it is to pull weeds, don't. The weeds are there for a reason. Your soil is sick and nature is trying to repair it. Weeds are better than bare soil. Rather, you should cut them to the ground as low as possible before they turn to seed. You want a living root in the ground at all times. Living roots feed the soil.
As you can tell, I'm passionate about soil. If anyone has any questions, i'll do my best to help.
Think of N-P-K as "up:down:all-around". Nitrogen for green up, phosphorous for root growth, potassium for all around health.
When can you arrive at my house to be my personal lawn care advisor?
Is it better to leave Dog Crap on the lawn, turn white and disintegrate into the dirt, or lick it up and put it in your belly? Also, some of like to pull our weeds.
All joking aside, that advice is good, but probably not practical to the average weekend lawn warrior, mainly the part about the compost. We have areas that get scorched by the sun in the summer, and we have a difficult time establishing and maintaining grass in those areas.
A layer of compost in those scorched areas will do wonders. You could also plant some sunflowers in that same area. The sunflowers will shade the lawn, cooling the soil. Also, the great thing about sunflowers is they put out a vast, deep root system, which helps build soil health. They're also beautiful, fun to grow, and attract a lot of beneficial insects.
Last edited:
I usually cut the lawn twice and then put down Vigoro Crabgrass/fertilizer. The key is to get it down before the dandelions pop up. $$$$
And I agree that we spend too much time and $$$ applying fertilizers.
You don't have to use synthetics. There are fine organic fertilizers and bio fungicides if needed. I don't use much, if any, synthetic fertilizers. Get a soil test from Rutgers and they'll tell you what deficiencies you have, if any, and what amendments you can try or not depending on x,y,z.
My front and back lawns are mud pits as a result of the additions I put on my house this past fall/winter. I'm thinking of it as an opportunity to start my lawn from scratch.
It was regraded and leveled by the contractors, using the earth they dug out for the foundations. My plan of attack is to churn that up and add a healthy nutrient rich top soil, smooth and level, spread seeds and seed aid, water water water. Was going to start this weekend since we're out of the 30s at night and with Easter and my Birthday I'm losing the next two weekends.
My lawn was ok after a few years reversing the effects of the previous owners neglect. My biggest issue was dandelions. Hoping that by starting over and using a high quality seed, I'm going to end up with an improved final product.
It was regraded and leveled by the contractors, using the earth they dug out for the foundations. My plan of attack is to churn that up and add a healthy nutrient rich top soil, smooth and level, spread seeds and seed aid, water water water. Was going to start this weekend since we're out of the 30s at night and with Easter and my Birthday I'm losing the next two weekends.
My lawn was ok after a few years reversing the effects of the previous owners neglect. My biggest issue was dandelions. Hoping that by starting over and using a high quality seed, I'm going to end up with an improved final product.
If you can hold off until fall, that is a better time to seed but if not, just keep after it. Don't skimp on seed. If you are going through all that work, time, and money I would use seed with very little or preferably no "other crop" or "weed" seed. You might get a soil test at Rutgers before you start. Good luck!
The problem with a soil test is that living roots change soil biology and chemistry. Therefore, a soil test done in the rhizosphere (the extremely narrow region of soil that is directly influenced by roots), will likely produce a different result from a test not in the rhizosphere.
A healthy soil, high in organic matter, with the proper biology, will automatically free up N,P,K and all the micro-nutrients a plant needs. The nutrients are there. I guarantee it. You just need the right balance of biology to free up those nutrients and make them plant available.
Since we are talking about soil--how do you get ride of "voles" (not moles). Rodent have tunneled across my entire yard.
Okay, we'll agree to disagree. Virtually every University turf program will recommend a soil test to identify possible deficiencies and imbalances. You can then, as may be needed, increase organic matter and nutrients without synthetics. To each his/her own, though.
use Scotts crabgrass preventer best most economical product. Over the last 12years I have tried all commercial products and found Scotts to be the best. 4-6weeks later put down the spring weed control....
I have found if you follow the Scotts 4-application sessional plan, plus reseeding and thatch every fall you will have a great lawn. all in all for a 1/3 of an acre will cost you maybe $400-500; which is relatively cheap.
I have found if you follow the Scotts 4-application sessional plan, plus reseeding and thatch every fall you will have a great lawn. all in all for a 1/3 of an acre will cost you maybe $400-500; which is relatively cheap.
I turned my yard into clover as opposed to grass. Never want to go back.
Soil health is critical and dumping chemical anything on it is not the answer.
An increase in organic matter will automatically increase plant available nutrients.
They tear up the yard making it difficult to mow. I have 2-4 inch tunnels criss-crossing my yard. Thankfully, our house is for sale, and I will not miss these rodents.
Back in the day, clover was actually sold as part of grass seed mixes. Wisely, since clovers are nitrogen fixers and they pair well with grass. I plant clover as a cover crop in my vegetable garden. Somewhere along the way, clover was perceived as bad. Sad.
I am all about garden health. I want to keep my soil healthy and bring as many pollinators as possible for my vegetable garden.
I get them too, but they don't seem to be a year round problem for me. A week here, a week there, and then they're gone for months at a time. There are kill traps if you want to go down that road. Get a terrier. That will make for good entertainment.
The good news is your lawn is full of earthworms, arthropods, and other litter critters that help aerate and cycle nutrients. That what the moles are after.
