OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread
- Thread starter Knight Shift
- Start date
As you can see in this thread, there are lots of different opinions and it’s not always black and white or right and wrong. If you did a late fertilization (winterize, maybe with urea or another high nitrogen app) then you might wait for the fertilizer until mid May. The theory here is that an early spring fertilizer pushes top growth where a strong winterize allows for root growth in spring. Others will have different opinions. Personally, I’d do the pre-emergent first and the fertilization a bit later this spring.
LOL - I was just starting to think about what I'm going to do to fill the time. Most of the items on my list revolve around taking care of outdoor items that have been bugging me. Lot of deferred maintenance around here that I can get caught up on.
Lack of sports got you down? Make your lawn look like Augusta National. Seriously up your game with a Swardman
I have a ride on tractor for our rather large lawn that mulches the clippings back into the lawn. At some point, however, it seems the lawn is clogging with clippings. Any guidance on when it might be wise to run a push mower with a bag to collect the clippings and reduce the number of clippings being left on the lawn with each weekly cut?
Clippings, as long as they aren’t too high, are free organic fertilizer. Unless you are away on vacation or wet weather doesn’t allow for mowing, I would not bag. You can cut twice (different directions) if need be. I’ve got a lawn tractor but almost always use an exmark push that mulches very well. I have about 1.2 acres but only about 27,000 sq ft. Of lawn. The Honda’s are less expensive and most of them do a good job mulching or you can attach a bag.
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/FS633/
The best way to think of it is as a program you do throughout the year, depending on the soil requirements, best determined by a soil test. Many folks, myself included, believe that most of the nitrogen for the annual allotment should be applied in the fall. Others have different opinions and that’s fine. A “winterizer” generally (please check your bag) has a high nitrogen content. High nitrogen in the early spring can be nice for a “green-up” but can compromise root development. It wouldn’t be the end of the world but I’d be inclined to wait a month or so. If you have the time, check the link and think about an annual fertilization program rather than a single application.
Also, high nitrogen in the spring can lead to disease development in the summer, like brown patch.
My yard is a patchy mess after we got patio work done last year and the equipment tore up my yard. I had horrible weeds last year and still have patches where the weeds were.
can I put down pre-emergent and try to kill the weeds now, and then still seed my lawn in late spring, or is it one or the other? Any solutions to clear weeds but still grow new grass?
can I put down pre-emergent and try to kill the weeds now, and then still seed my lawn in late spring, or is it one or the other? Any solutions to clear weeds but still grow new grass?
I'm not a pro, so their advice would hold more merit. That being said, if you have to seed this spring, you could seed as you normally would, and treat the seeded area with Tenacity (mesotrione) as a pre-emergent at the same time. Once the grass has established itself, you would then hit the weeds with more Tenacity with the post-emergent dilution as a spot treatment.
Sprayed Dimension at the .37 oz per 1000 sq ft rate today. I was going to wait a bit but we’re expecting some rain this week and schedule to go to Turks and Caicos next week (might skip it and eat the cost, don’t know yet) so I didn’t want to wait two more weeks.) forsythia about 25% in bloom in my yard, soil temps 49-53. I skipped a few patches that I will overseed and spray with Mesotrione, then do another app in 30 days, then Dimension in 60.
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Thanks Knight Shift and phs73rc77gsm83 , I put down my Scotts Halts plus fertilizer this past week. My lawn is much greener and looking better than the yards around me. I have a female dog who pees all over the yard, should I lime now too?
I believe the active chemical in Halts is Pendimethalin. This product only lasts a few months once applied. You probably should apply this product again in June if you want better protection throughout the summer into the fall. Many lawn care companies use this product in Cincinnati because it’s a low cost and they apply it twice.
So, the soil temperature was up above 50 yesterday, and now it's in the 40's again, and will not be warm again for a few days.
Just put the pre-emergent down on the really warm day (Thursday or Friday)?
It’s fine either way. Dimension has some post emergent control in addition to preemergent so there is a broader window (if you use that). There really isn’t an exact or precise time so I’d do, it this week when it fits your schedule. Frankly, you do it in the next week or two. No PM is 100%, you’re just trying to be as effective as possible.
You should be in great shape as we are supposed to get 0.5" rain on Thursday which is perfect. I am making my application on Wednesday.
For those looking for an organic alternative pre emergent, corn meal gluten has been proven effective. I haven't tried it myself yet but wonder if anyone on here has an experience.
Bad joke ahead--Lawn Doctor analyzed my lawn and recommended a gluten free diet.
But to your point, it apparently works if applied at proper time.
https://www.thespruce.com/corn-gluten-herbicide-careful-timing-2152947
Corn gluten does not prevent weed seeds from germinating, but it does inhibit those seeds from forming roots after germination This means that applications must be very carefully timed. When the application of corn gluten is timed correctly, crabgrass seeds germinating will form shoots but not roots, and will therefore die, provided there is a short dry period after seed germination. However, if conditions are too wet immediately after seed germination, the weed can recover and establish a root.
Corn gluten is useful only as a pre-emergent herbicide; it provides no post-emergent weed control. If crabgrass and other weed seeds have already germinated and taken root, a late application of corn gluten will only serve as fertilizer for the weeds. Further, applications of corn gluten need to be precisely timed around rainfall or watering. After application, corn gluten needs to be watered in, either by rainfall or by artificial watering, within five days of application. Rainfall of about 1/4 inch, or a comparable artificial watering, is ideal. After this, a dry period of one or two days is required to prevent weed seedlings that have germinated from growing roots.
Bad joke ahead--Lawn Doctor analyzed my lawn and recommended a gluten free diet.
But to your point, it apparently works if applied at proper time.
https://www.thespruce.com/corn-gluten-herbicide-careful-timing-2152947
Corn gluten does not prevent weed seeds from germinating, but it does inhibit those seeds from forming roots after germination This means that applications must be very carefully timed. When the application of corn gluten is timed correctly, crabgrass seeds germinating will form shoots but not roots, and will therefore die, provided there is a short dry period after seed germination. However, if conditions are too wet immediately after seed germination, the weed can recover and establish a root.
Corn gluten is useful only as a pre-emergent herbicide; it provides no post-emergent weed control. If crabgrass and other weed seeds have already germinated and taken root, a late application of corn gluten will only serve as fertilizer for the weeds. Further, applications of corn gluten need to be precisely timed around rainfall or watering. After application, corn gluten needs to be watered in, either by rainfall or by artificial watering, within five days of application. Rainfall of about 1/4 inch, or a comparable artificial watering, is ideal. After this, a dry period of one or two days is required to prevent weed seedlings that have germinated from growing roots.
https://www.hort.iastate.edu/horticulture-research/corn-gluten-meal-research/
There is some research to support this. I think it is more proven as an organic fertilizer than an effective pre-emergent.
Hope op doesn't mind broadening the topic... but thought it would be a good thread to get some feedback on a lawn tractor. I've got a 1/2 acre flat yard and need a tractor to mow, aerate, haul firewood, and push snow. Considering JD 350 but not quite sure if the k46 tuf tork transmission will be adequate. This trans has no drain plug so its not made to be easily serviced. Moving up to better transmission would add at another $1k. Hear competition, like Cub cadet, has sold out and given up making quality equipment.
I have an older John Deere, and I am happy with it. Getting it to a service center is challenging and expensive, as the one closest to us closed.
I have a tow behind de-thatcher, a tow cart for hauling firewood, leaves, etc., and just picked up a tow behind aerator.
Don't know if they are still available in the same quality since they are now owned by Arient, but had a Gravely Tractor years ago that had a a plow, and that was a wrecking machine.
Reduce your synthetics and your clippings will disappeared. Synthetics kill soil biology (beneficial bacteria and fungi) so there's nothing there to decompose your grass clippings.
No synthetics last year at all, and the lawn was clogged with clippings and thatch. Newly established lawn in October 2018.
Ok so when should I put down this preemergent stuff on my berm hedge row in the front? I'm allowed to use chemicals in the front of the house where no animals are, so I'm really not very versed on these applications. Are we at the temp yet? Hate to waste the stuff.
I just put mine down on my lawn. Forsythias are in full bloom.
Get it down tomorrow. Heavy rain tomorrow night into Thursday.
Thanks. Just don't have the time for hunting for that, having it delivered, depositing it on the lawn.
Sure. I like to seed late August or September but you can put it down now. If you already applied a pre-emergent that’ll hinder germination (unless you used Mesotrione, you can seed with that) but if you rough up the spots to break the barrier you’ve have better luck. Even if you didn’t apply a preemergent it’s a good idea to rough up the spots with a rake. I like to apply a very thin layer of peat moss down over top but if you do make sure you water it in well. I’d try to water the spots 2 or 3 times daily for a couple weeks if there is no rain.
IMHO a bit too early. Cool-season grass seed germinates best when soil temperatures are between 50°F and 65°F. This roughly corresponds to daytime air temperatures in the 60°F to 75°F
I agree with your soil temperature guidance. I’ve been above 50 for all areas of my lawn for a week or so. Plus, if we get a late cold snap it’ll germinate when warmth returns. But there is some risk if it starts to germinate then we get a longer cold spell. The trade off might be if you start later will the grass become established enough for the summer heat. Murphy and all...
Saw this on "This Old House"
Natural Compost Tea fertilizer:
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/gardening/21016391/how-to-make-and-use-compost-tea
Used by Harvard with some links to Compost tea recipes.
http://www.energyandfacilities.harv...scape-maintenance/organic-maintenance-program
Natural Compost Tea fertilizer:
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/gardening/21016391/how-to-make-and-use-compost-tea
Used by Harvard with some links to Compost tea recipes.
http://www.energyandfacilities.harv...scape-maintenance/organic-maintenance-program
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