OT: Crabgrass
- Thread starter Shelby65
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Was going to say I have seen some success with MSMA, but looked it up. Apparently it is now banned by the EPA. The compound is still available for other uses though...
As noted above, a good pre-emergent and spot weeding (pulling by hand) does the trick, but sounds like you are too far gone for this year.
As noted above, a good pre-emergent and spot weeding (pulling by hand) does the trick, but sounds like you are too far gone for this year.
Funny you mentioned agent orange because that is what I was doing last night in my backyard. Tired of fighting the battle, going to defoliate and start from scratch. I don't know how it ever got away from me especially because I'm nuts about my lawn. The front is perfect the back a freaking disaster.
The several deep bursts of heavy rains this summer has wiped out any effect of pre-emergent treatment. It is a banner year for the crab!
for really bad crabgrasss you must play offense. Now is the time! Use roundup to kill crabgrass. When it is dead over seed in four weeks with a good grass mix for your sunlight conditions, I.e full sun or shade. In spring use a good preemergent broadcast crabgrass preventer such as Scotts with halts. Continue on same cycle until crabgrass is gone....can take several years!
I'm in a losing battle with crabgrass this year as well. I usually drop some Milorganite and overseed to keep the grass thick and then hand pull anything that does come up, but had another kid in Dec in addition to the 4 yr old and 2 yr old, so I've let the lawn slide a bit this year.
"the Crab" is annual and will die off with first frost!
Seed could last for years ( I read somewhere up to 50 years). So you may never annihilate "the Crab".
Seed could last for years ( I read somewhere up to 50 years). So you may never annihilate "the Crab".
Tenacity is your answer. This stuff is pre and post emergence and kills everything in your yard except northern turf grasses. It will turn some types of turf grass brown but the grass will come back. All the crab grass and weeds will turn white (about a week after application) so if you have a lot of crab grass your lawn will be white for 2 - 3 weeks. Oh, and it is ok to apply to newly seeded lawns.
I've attached an amazon link. It will seem expensive, but this 8 oz bottle will mix with water to make about 25 - 30 gallons. You should also purchase the surfactant shown in the "frequently bought together" section.
Amazon product ASIN B005DUTNF0
The only granular product I've found with this herbicide is a Scott's product. Link attached.
Amazon product ASIN B00B04KC4O
This product will work for about 6 weeks so you'll have to apply several times during the spring and summer. A drawback is that your grass clippings can NOT be used for mulching around a garden for at least a year. I found this out the hard way. :cry:
I've attached an amazon link. It will seem expensive, but this 8 oz bottle will mix with water to make about 25 - 30 gallons. You should also purchase the surfactant shown in the "frequently bought together" section.
Amazon product ASIN B005DUTNF0
The only granular product I've found with this herbicide is a Scott's product. Link attached.
Amazon product ASIN B00B04KC4O
This product will work for about 6 weeks so you'll have to apply several times during the spring and summer. A drawback is that your grass clippings can NOT be used for mulching around a garden for at least a year. I found this out the hard way. :cry:
Been a bad year for crabgrass for me as well down here in South Jersey.
I also have been invaded by some sedge and green kyllinga grass. There are sections of light green grass on my mostly fescue/KBG lawn. The grass developed round seed heads and after some research, it was determined I had kyllinga.
I am going to apply a product called Dismiss that is supposed to take care of sedge and kyllinga but also crab grass. I will report back any results.
Crab grass will die at the first hard frost, as stated above. The best way to defeat it is with a good pre-emergent appled when the forsythia bloom, as RUrichdog said. Prodiamine (Barricade) lasts the longest. PEndimethalin is in some Scotts products and is good too. I like Dithiopyr (Dimmension) the best since it has both a pre and post emergent impact. The duration of these is generally 3-6 months depending on rate and other variables. I use dithiopyr when the forsythia bloom then a sequential ap around now for poa annua and winter annuals. Agoodnap is spot on with mesotrione (tenacity) which can be used at seed down and for an overseed. Tenacity has both pre and post emergence; it might require a second ap. Note the other pre-emergents I mentioned can not be used in overseeing for 2-3 or more months. As a post emergent, something with quincloric or 24d (e.g., Orthos with crab grass preventer). But the best way is a good PM program. I would not use roundup unless you want to kill desire able turf that you might accidentally spray. A full renovation--killing everything and reseeding--can give you great results but is a lot of work and I wouldn't do it unless you know what you are getting into. You can get these products online or at something like a John Deere Lanscape. You really need to read the label or whatever you use. Last thought, don't skimp on seed. I would not buy or use seed that has any percent of weed seed or "other crop."
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