OT: Timing of Crabgrass Pre Emergent.

[BellyFullOfWhiteDogCrap]

use Scotts crabgrass preventer best most economical product. Over the last 12years I have tried all commercial products and found Scotts to be the best. 4-6weeks later put down the spring weed control....

I have found if you follow the Scotts 4-application sessional plan, plus reseeding and thatch every fall you will have a great lawn. all in all for a 1/3 of an acre will cost you maybe $400-500; which is relatively cheap.

Just an fyi...all of the years of synthetics have destroyed the microbial life of the your soil. If your soil is full of life, thatch would never form.

 

[Knight Shift]

I get them too, but they don't seem to be a year round problem for me. A week here, a week there, and then they're gone for months at a time. There are kill traps if you want to go down that road. Get a terrier. That will make for good entertainment.
The good news is your lawn is full of earthworms, arthropods, and other litter critters that help aerate and cycle nutrients. That what the moles are after.

Voles, not moles. Found several in our pool filter. Big front teeth:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vole

 

[BellyFullOfWhiteDogCrap]

Voles, not moles. Found several in our pool filter. Big front teeth:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vole

Sorry. The problem you were describing sounded like moles. Is it possible you have both?

Raised soil ridges, excavated earth and stripes of dying grass: suspect # 1, the bumbling "blind" mole
Typical mole damage consists of raised ridges of soil, about an inch high and four inches wide, traveling under turf or through garden beds. These raised tunnels are made by moles in search of a meal. Moles eat insects, favoring grubs and worms. What moles lack in visual acuity (moles are not actually blind) they make up for in digging ability. Moles use their strong front feet and impressive claws to make extensive networks of burrows. The shallow tunnels they dig are the ones that annoy gardeners; as moles tunnel, they heave up grass and plants and cause their roots to dry out. Some shallow mole tunnels are used just once. Press fresh mole tunnels down. Grass might recover from a brief upheaval. Lawn areas may even reap a slight benefit from some mole activity if the moles are eating the grass-damaging grubs of Japanese beetles.

Neat holes. unexplained plant failure and suddenly wilted individual plants: suspect #2, the voracious vole
Voles look like mice; some are commonly called meadow mice or pine mice. Voles may travel through mole tunnels, but also dig their own burrows. The only visible evidence of a vole burrow is the neat exit holes an inch or two across. Vole holes can be right out in the open, or cleverly hidden under foliage or debris in the garden. Deep mulch and areas of groundcover plantings offer excellent vole habitat. Voles eat plants, and are far more destructive in the landscape than moles. Voles can travel above ground but really prefer to stay hidden. They may make pathways just under mulch, matted leaves, boards or snow; just about anything laying on the surface of the soil will make a nice roof for a vole run.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/2850#b

 

[Knight Shift]

Sorry. The problem you were describing sounded like moles. Is it possible you have both?

Raised soil ridges, excavated earth and stripes of dying grass: suspect # 1, the bumbling "blind" mole
Typical mole damage consists of raised ridges of soil, about an inch high and four inches wide, traveling under turf or through garden beds. These raised tunnels are made by moles in search of a meal. Moles eat insects, favoring grubs and worms. What moles lack in visual acuity (moles are not actually blind) they make up for in digging ability. Moles use their strong front feet and impressive claws to make extensive networks of burrows. The shallow tunnels they dig are the ones that annoy gardeners; as moles tunnel, they heave up grass and plants and cause their roots to dry out. Some shallow mole tunnels are used just once. Press fresh mole tunnels down. Grass might recover from a brief upheaval. Lawn areas may even reap a slight benefit from some mole activity if the moles are eating the grass-damaging grubs of Japanese beetles.

Neat holes. unexplained plant failure and suddenly wilted individual plants: suspect #2, the voracious vole
Voles look like mice; some are commonly called meadow mice or pine mice. Voles may travel through mole tunnels, but also dig their own burrows. The only visible evidence of a vole burrow is the neat exit holes an inch or two across. Vole holes can be right out in the open, or cleverly hidden under foliage or debris in the garden. Deep mulch and areas of groundcover plantings offer excellent vole habitat. Voles eat plants, and are far more destructive in the landscape than moles. Voles can travel above ground but really prefer to stay hidden. They may make pathways just under mulch, matted leaves, boards or snow; just about anything laying on the surface of the soil will make a nice roof for a vole run.

http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/2850#b

Yes, they leave the neat exit holes. As I said, I have found them in our pool filter. I also uncovered a nest of them years ago. They are not moles.

 

[fg7321]

What affect does crabgrass pre-emergent have on dogs.

 

[gef21]

What affect does crabgrass pre-emergent have on dogs.

It is an herbicide. None of it is healthy for people, animals, or the environment.

 

[BellyFullOfWhiteDogCrap]

My front and back lawns are mud pits as a result of the additions I put on my house this past fall/winter. I'm thinking of it as an opportunity to start my lawn from scratch.

It was regraded and leveled by the contractors, using the earth they dug out for the foundations. My plan of attack is to churn that up and add a healthy nutrient rich top soil, smooth and level, spread seeds and seed aid, water water water. Was going to start this weekend since we're out of the 30s at night and with Easter and my Birthday I'm losing the next two weekends.

My lawn was ok after a few years reversing the effects of the previous owners neglect. My biggest issue was dandelions. Hoping that by starting over and using a high quality seed, I'm going to end up with an improved final product.

With that amount of mud, you have a water infiltration problem caused by compaction. DO NOT till that soil. Tillage will lead to even more compaction and worsen your mud/ water infiltration problem. You need pore spaces and soil aggregates. The only way those are attained is through life. Every other part of your plan sounds good. I would also topdress your seed with compost. I would recommend some rye grasses in your mix (perennial and annual). Rye grass sends down a deep root system that will help break up that hard pan layer you have.

 

[JMORC2003]

With that amount of mud, you have a water infiltration problem caused by compaction. DO NOT till that soil. Tillage will lead to even more compaction and worsen your mud/ water infiltration problem. You need pore spaces and soil aggregates. The only way those are attained is through life. Every other part of your plan sounds good. I would also topdress your seed with compost. I would recommend some rye grasses in your mix (perennial and annual). Rye grass sends down a deep root system that will help break up that hard pan layer you have.

Sorry, just meant that with all the rain latey, the bare dirt gets. They did a solid job grading so the water runs off nicely, but we've had a few heavy rain days over the last few weeks. My kids like it though.

 

[RUaMoose]

I just put 10-10-10 down. I have the liquid weed and feed so once I see the dandelions I'll break out the hoses. Skipping the pre-emergent this year.

 

[dazl]

FWIW re: timing - I just picked up some 18-0-4 with Dimension at the Belle Mead Co-op today and they said it's still a bit early and to wait a week, possibly a few days longer. I usually go with the 'forsythia' rule and it works fine although I wasn't sure how this spring's weather was going to affect the treatment timing.