Definitely check your tire pressure now that the temps have gone down into the 20's. Most likely you'll need to add 2-6 pounds of pressure to them.
PSA: Tire pressure in cold weather
- Thread starter DJ Spanky
- Start date
Well that probably increased exit pressure, but I'm not sure if that helped your tire pressure.
Ok Spanky.
So the important thing is to add when temps are freezing.
Question:
I was at 35 on thanksgiving, at 30 now.
If i fill to 35 immediately, what would happen if it was 60 on Thursday?
On the other hand ... when driving in winter-weather conditions, a lesser-inflated tire can aid in traction (snow/ice).
I fill my tires with a proprietary blend of laughing gas and vaporized cocaine. More smiles per mile while going even faster.
Not necessarily - if they get too low you'll be riding more on the edges of the tire than the middle, which decreases your traction area and can also cause premature wear, especially on your front tires.
The lucky ones. Shelby feels like he’s to toting a second Shelby around since Thanksgiving.
I wish I had the answer 'cause I'm tired of answering that question.
The rough rule of thumb for ideal gases, like air (or nitrogen, which is very similar to air which is about 78% nitrogen and 21% oxygen), which follow the PV=nRT relationship, is for every 10C change in temp, there is a 3.7% change in pressure (or for every 10F change in temp there is a ~2% change in pressure), as calculated from Gay-Lussac's Law for ideal gases (in a fixed volume, closed system, like a tire), which says that P1T1 = P2T2, where temperature is absolute temperature (in Kelvin). Specifically (solving for P2 when the temp has changed), at 0C, which is 273K, if one has ~30 psi tire pressure and the temperature goes up to 10C (or 283K or 50F), then the pressure will go up 3.7% (283K/273K - the calc has to use Kelvin) to about 31.1 psi and similarly if the temperature drops to -10C (or263K or 14F), the tire pressure will go down 3.7% to about 28.9 psi.
So within a season where temp usually doesn't vary more than +/-10C (like 14-50F in winter in these parts), there's really little reason to adjust one's tire pressure if one has been doing so periodically through the year. However, if the last time one adjusted the tire pressure was in summer, say at 40C (102F) on the hottest day of the year, then at 0C, months later, that pressure would've dropped about 14.8% or 4.4 psi to 25.6 psi if it was 30 psi at 40C/104F.
So @DJ Spanky is absolutely correct that one probably has lost 2-6 psi pressure if one hasn't adjusted the tire pressure since it was fairly warm out and one should adjust their tire pressure now. If one adjusts tire pressure 3-4 times a year or more (especially if one has a slow leak), then that's likely all one ever needs to do. Just thought I'd share the science of it all.
@zappaa - going from 32F (0C/273K) to 60F (16C/289K) will raise the tire pressure by 5.9% (289/273) or about 1.8 psi if originally at 30 psi and typically, less than 2-3 psi difference in either direction isn't going to be a major issue for performance.
Lastly, nitrogen for tires is a giant scam. Air is already 78% nitrogen (almost all of the rest is 21% oxygen and "nitrogen" for tires is usually only about 95% nitrogen, not 100%) and most of the purported advantages are complete BS. There is a very slight advantage in maintaining tire pressure, over a month or more, but certainly not worth the cost, especially since it's pretty simple to top off tire pressure every month or two with free air. See the link below.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/should-you-fill-your-cars-tires-with-nitrogen.html
So within a season where temp usually doesn't vary more than +/-10C (like 14-50F in winter in these parts), there's really little reason to adjust one's tire pressure if one has been doing so periodically through the year. However, if the last time one adjusted the tire pressure was in summer, say at 40C (102F) on the hottest day of the year, then at 0C, months later, that pressure would've dropped about 14.8% or 4.4 psi to 25.6 psi if it was 30 psi at 40C/104F.
So @DJ Spanky is absolutely correct that one probably has lost 2-6 psi pressure if one hasn't adjusted the tire pressure since it was fairly warm out and one should adjust their tire pressure now. If one adjusts tire pressure 3-4 times a year or more (especially if one has a slow leak), then that's likely all one ever needs to do. Just thought I'd share the science of it all.
@zappaa - going from 32F (0C/273K) to 60F (16C/289K) will raise the tire pressure by 5.9% (289/273) or about 1.8 psi if originally at 30 psi and typically, less than 2-3 psi difference in either direction isn't going to be a major issue for performance.
Lastly, nitrogen for tires is a giant scam. Air is already 78% nitrogen (almost all of the rest is 21% oxygen and "nitrogen" for tires is usually only about 95% nitrogen, not 100%) and most of the purported advantages are complete BS. There is a very slight advantage in maintaining tire pressure, over a month or more, but certainly not worth the cost, especially since it's pretty simple to top off tire pressure every month or two with free air. See the link below.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/should-you-fill-your-cars-tires-with-nitrogen.html
see my post, although if you're tired of answering that question, but don't know the answer, what, exactly are you telling people? 😉
Strongly disagree with your take on nitrogen - I can a full year without any change in tire pressure. Where I have issue is when the car is serviced/tire rotation and the tech disregards instructions and puts air in the tires.
Helium for the win! Helium will increase the buoyancy of the tires, and the change in temperature will be negated!
Or LIQUID nitrogen-tires will be hard as rocks, and no temperature effects.
All of the above was completely in jest.
I can speak to mud, and I challenge @RU848789 to debate me.Just watch out for the mud
Mud has a very low nitrogen content. It's roughly 40% SiO2, 11% Al2O3, 17% MgO and 6 % Fe2O3, with the remainder typically being organic matter, often reported as loss on ignition (LOI).
Well, you're wrong with regard to pressure rise/drop related to temperature, as nitrogen and air (79% N2) have exactly the same behavior with regard to sensitivity of P to T changes. As I said above, there's a slight advantage in pressure retention of N2 over air (a small 1.3 psi advantage over 1 year), since N2 molecules are a bit larger than O2 molecules, so they're slightly less likely to permeate the tire walls (leakage), but that difference is tiny as per the CR reference in the article I linked. Basically if one simply checks/adjusts air pressure a few times per year, the slight advantage of N2 is negated. The other purported N2 advantages (tire rot, running temp, etc) have not been verified in scientific tests.
Consumer Reports conducted a yearlong study to determine how much pressure was lost in tires filled with nitrogen versus those filled with air. The results showed that nitrogen did reduce pressure loss over time, but it was only a 1.3 psi difference from air-filled tires. Among 31 pairs of tires, the average loss of air-filled tires was 3.5 psi from the initial 30 psi setting. Nitrogen-filled tires lost an average of 2.2 psi from the initial setting. Nitrogen won the test but not by a significant margin.
Assuming you are a member. On a side note, it is safe to mix nitrogen and air in the tire, but the benefits are diluted when doing so. I would purge the tire before filling to get as much nitrogen in the tire for maximum benefit.
I am, but the nitrogen station is in the parking lot & I have never seen anyone checking for membership over the years
The machines are right in the parking lot like outside the tire station. They say it's for "members only", but it's not as if you have to scan your card at them or anyone is going to break your balls for using them.
Well, I did spend several years doing graduate research on soil-based microbial bioreactors to detoxify hazardous wastes, so I learned everything I could about soils. What you quoted is "typical" inorganic elemental composition for mud, but mud inorganic elemental and organic content (especially humic, fulvic and acetic acid content) can vary significantly depending on the soil source type which greatly impacts the amount of silt and clay and organic content, which passes through the 63 micron sieve used to separate "mud" particles from larger soil particles. There's also "mud" we're all familiar with in yards, lots, etc. and muds used for things like drilling, all of which are essentially colloidal suspensions of the fine silt/clay particles in water. Just don't get it in your eye, despite the toast, lol.
Curious about the red mud around New Brunwick/Piscataway versus the browner mud down in Monmouth County. Probably a higher iron content?
Holy thread jack!!!! This thread ran out of air.
I was always under the assumption you needed to scan your card to activate the machine. I have never used it because I check my pressure at home when the tire is cold to get a true reading and fill with my own compressor.
This. One of the first things my dad told me was "lower tire pressure once the bad (snow/ice) weather hits."
hasn't rained since May ?
Worried about tire pressure when the tire gets wet ?
Piss on it 😁
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Yes, the Brunswick Formation (now known as the Passaic Formation) which is heavily sedimentary/shale-containing, is common to much of CNJ/NNJ, especially in the Raritan Valley, owes its reddish hue to the presence of hematite, a mineral formed from oxidized iron (hematite and hemoglobin both contain the Greek root "haima" meaning blood); iirc, most of Monmouth County and the SNJ coastal plain has mostly sandy soils. I'm not a geology expert - need 4Real for this one.
Maybe we should discuss Antomology, the study of ants, next (old joke - actually knew someone who thought that).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geology_of_New_Jersey
Terrible advice, I tried that last year and my bill was much higher.
Luckily, my youngest, who lives with me, and I prefer the house cool. So we keep our downstairs at 65 and the upstairs at 64.
Presumably this keeps the bill lower than at more typical temps.
And the sheep have all that wool, so they’re good.
Since moving to South Jersey, the Delaware River Mud thing always interested me...
Mud Maker: The Man Behind MLB’s Essential Secret Sauce
MLB still leans on its longtime mud suppliers who harvest the secret sauce needed on every baseball.
What makes baseball’s “magic mud” so special?
It has just the right mix of spreadability, stickiness, and friction to give pitchers a better grip on the ball.
arstechnica.com
Our house is 71-72F every minute of every year, as the wife likes it that temp, even if that means heat in the mornings and AC in the afternoons on fall/spring days, lol. I'm sure our bills are ridiculous. Maybe if we had sheep we could at least save on the heating bill.
