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OT: Water Heater not working

JMORC2003

All Conference
Dec 22, 2008
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I have hot water but it runs out quickly. Give it a while and it heats up just fine, but then runs out quickly again. I had PSEG worry free come out and they suspected it's a cracked dip tube. I'm noticing it now because the cold water is extra cold b/c of the weather so it's cooling/reducing the hot water faster.

Then I mentioned that as its cooling off, if I turn the shower handle hotter, I get another minute of hot again. He said it could be a mixing valve issue in that shower (valve is about 7 years old and in good condition).

He also said there's no real repair for a dip tube, it'll require a full replacement of the entire heater. That doesn't seem right, a quick google and it actually seems like a simple fix.

Mixing valve would be a plumber issue, so trying to avoid another house call, if possible.

Anyone have any experience with a water heater issue like this??
 
I have hot water but it runs out quickly. Give it a while and it heats up just fine, but then runs out quickly again. I had PSEG worry free come out and they suspected it's a cracked dip tube. I'm noticing it now because the cold water is extra cold b/c of the weather so it's cooling/reducing the hot water faster.

Then I mentioned that as its cooling off, if I turn the shower handle hotter, I get another minute of hot again. He said it could be a mixing valve issue in that shower (valve is about 7 years old and in good condition).

He also said there's no real repair for a dip tube, it'll require a full replacement of the entire heater. That doesn't seem right, a quick google and it actually seems like a simple fix.

Mixing valve would be a plumber issue, so trying to avoid another house call, if possible.

Anyone have any experience with a water heater issue like this??
You absolutely can replace the dip tube. Does this same issue happen at other showers/tubs, or sinks? If so, it’s definitely a hot water heater issue. If not, it’s in the valve for that shower.
 
This happened to me last week. There should be a dial on the water heater to control the temp. Mine says, Pilot Light, Low, Hot, A, B, C, Very Hot. I turned the dial closer to very hot, and it's been working better but my heater is also old and I probably need to replace it soon.
 
You absolutely can replace the dip tube. Does this same issue happen at other showers/tubs, or sinks? If so, it’s definitely a hot water heater issue. If not, it’s in the valve for that shower.
I tried the kitchen sink, full blast hot and lasted about 40 mins, but realized the volume coming out of a sink it's a shower. I'll try the upstairs shower tomorrow. Good call.
 
my only HW issue things is the regular flush you should do.. especially if you see the water getting real hot without a change in your temp setting.. but ideally well before that. And then we had this issue where a honeywell controller similar to this one.. this video is short but worked for me.. issue was high temperature shutdown was occurring.. took forever to find this...

 
This happened to me last week. There should be a dial on the water heater to control the temp. Mine says, Pilot Light, Low, Hot, A, B, C, Very Hot. I turned the dial closer to very hot, and it's been working better but my heater is also old and I probably need to replace it soon.
Tried that a few years back and worked. Tried it again, no dice.

Heater is about 14 years old so not new.
 
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Tried that a few years back and worked. Tried it again, no dice.

Heater is about 14 years old so not new.
AS RU85 said. You had a good run with that one. They don't make em like they used to. IF you don't have a power vent an easy replace )not hard with one but much more expensive unit). Natural gas or electric? Easy do it yourself if basic skilled and pull the permit. Lots of rebates out there from your utility company which will require that permit to process.
 
Also, it’s easy to see how much hot water you’re getting. Go to the water meter, take a picture of the reading with your phone. Now open any hot water faucet and let it run. Once you stop getting hot water, check the new reading to see how many gallons of hot water you used. Compare that to your overall tank capacity. Again, not advocating wasting water, just for diagnostic purposes only.
 
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First, could be you have anti-scald valve on shower that's failing.

Second, The right question above is, gas or electric? I say the dip tube diagnosis is nonsense.
If the problem is slow recovery and its electric, I would say u have one of the 2 heating elements out. If it's gas, I would lean towards sediment in the bottom insulating the tank from burner or poor combustion for a variety of reasons. The only true FAILURE of a water heater is when the tank leaks. The tech was not competent or full of $h1t. Trying to sell you on replacement. Sediment inside and dampness outside of tank determine how long they last for the most part. Plan for replacement if over 20yrs just to be proactive. Tanks always fail @ 6pm on Sundays. Its built into the DNA.
 
I have had Rheem water heaters for a long time and they usually last 10 years or so, maybe more now and then.... If I call for either a repair, or replacement, it always seems to wind up with that

the last one went bad about 3 weeks short of 6 years, so not good there....I believe the warranty was for 6 years, so on the
phone with the manufacturer, he said they usually grant an extra 2 weeks grace period......but not three

wheezer luck at its best
 
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I would think 14 years you won’t get much more out of it. Mine is a 10 year old whirlpool , that I started checking drips for . It’s a cheapo that I spent under $400 on.
Had a rheem before this for over 20 years. Would have lasted more, but Irene flood helped send it to the grave. They don’t make them like they used to .
 
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17 year old electric water heater. 21 year old oil burner and 15 year old A/C compressor. 42 year old septic. Plan on staying here at least ten years. What's the number? I'm thinking 60k? $$$$
 
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17 year old electric water heater. 21 year old oil burner and 15 year old A/C compressor. 42 year old septic. Plan on staying here at least ten years. What's the number? I'm thinking 60k? $$$$
would be curious to see how the workforce and supply chain malfeasance has affected prices and schedules to get something like this done.
 
17 year old electric water heater. 21 year old oil burner and 15 year old A/C compressor. 42 year old septic. Plan on staying here at least ten years. What's the number? I'm thinking 60k? $$$$
All of those things if well maintained will continue to do their jobs. The only one that might be cost effective to replace is the A/C because of the efficiency gains and the sure rise in energy costs and inflation on replacement costs going forward. The main failure point of air handlers is the heat exchanger. With an oil furnace you will know right away because it stinks like hell.
The water heater again depends solely on the integrity of the tank. Septic system is forever for all intents and purposes if well designed and taken care of.
 
Water heaters can build up sediments over time that can cover the heating element and reduce the capacity of the tank. Connect a hose at the outlet valve at the bottom of the tank and flush to a drain. That might help.
 
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17 year old electric water heater. 21 year old oil burner and 15 year old A/C compressor. 42 year old septic. Plan on staying here at least ten years. What's the number? I'm thinking 60k? $$$$

All of those things if well maintained will continue to do their jobs. The only one that might be cost effective to replace is the A/C because of the efficiency gains and the sure rise in energy costs and inflation on replacement costs going forward. The main failure point of air handlers is the heat exchanger. With an oil furnace you will know right away because it stinks like hell.
The water heater again depends solely on the integrity of the tank. Septic system is forever for all intents and purposes if well designed and taken care of.
IIRC, great thing about electric water heaters is that when the heating element goes bad, it is relatively cheap and easy to replace, compared to troubleshooting and repairing a gas water heater.

As others have noted, trying flushing the water heater first. Use a garden hose, and hopefully you have a sump pit to drain it into.
 
who has done the conversion from tank gas water heater to tankless? What was the cost and would you do it again . We probably wont be in our home more than 5 more years....
 
who has done the conversion from tank gas water heater to tankless? What was the cost and would you do it again . We probably wont be in our home more than 5 more years....
On the 5 year question alone, would not do it. The payback period is usually around 20 years. If you have hard water, it is also advisable to flush a tankless every 6 months. We have considered it several times, and stuck with the traditional WH.


 
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17 year old electric water heater. 21 year old oil burner and 15 year old A/C compressor. 42 year old septic. Plan on staying here at least ten years. What's the number? I'm thinking 60k? $$$$
Septic system life is dependent on many factors... 42yrs is above average life. Ours cost $20k to replace for a 4 bedroom house.
 
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Septic system life is dependent on many factors... 42yrs is above average life. Ours cost $20k to replace for a 4 bedroom house.
My neighbor's septic system is 65 years old. They sold their house last year, and although the septic system does not meet code, they had no problem selling their house and the new residence are using it. So I do not think a septic system goes bad. But it has to be pumped out every 7 years or so depending on how many people are using it. Plus you have to be careful what you put down the drain. You don't want to put too much bleach down the drain, which kills the bacteria that breaks down the waste. What went wrong with your septic system?
 
Septic system life is dependent on many factors... 42yrs is above average life. Ours cost $20k to replace for a 4 bedroom house.
The only factors are : was it designed properly and was it used & maintained properly. If those two things are correct it will last indefinitely. The people who told you 40 years are probably the ones who sold you the system rebuild. Nearly all failures are due to modern households introducing microbe killing chemicals and grease to the system. This causes solids to enter and clog the drain field. Hence the swamp in your front or back yard from the solids tank overflow. Simple as that. A few pump outs and A little Rid-X over the years will save you the $20k.
 
I have had Rheem water heaters for a long time and they usually last 10 years or so, maybe more now and then.... If I call for either a repair, or replacement, it always seems to wind up with that

the last one went bad about 3 weeks short of 6 years, so not good there....I believe the warranty was for 6 years, so on the
phone with the manufacturer, he said they usually grant an extra 2 weeks grace period......but not three

wheezer luck at its best
It didn't even last 6 years!?? With all the green earth stuff you would think they would force manufacturers to make things to last a long time. Filling up the landfill with junk isn't very green. I suppose a water heater is mostly metal so they can recycle most of it.
 
It didn't even last 6 years!?? With all the green earth stuff you would think they would force manufacturers to make things to last a long time. Filling up the landfill with junk isn't very green. I suppose a water heater is mostly metal so they can recycle most of it.
I was shocked it went that Quickly

As I said I have had very good experience with previous heaters
 
Septic system life is dependent on many factors... 42yrs is above average life. Ours cost $20k to replace for a 4 bedroom house.
My settling concrete tank has a hole in it. I have a friend who does septic systems and he just did one down the street from me.

He looked at it and said, "yup you've got a hole". Nonchalantly while I proceeded to freak out
I said, "well shouldn't we replace the septic settling tank?"
He said, "with the soil you're on, you're going through a natural sandy loam rather than the sand I'm going to make you pay for, I wouldn't worry about it".

We're lucky we sit on the Metedeconk watershed, so everything drains extremely well on the property. Still even if we got it completely replaced with permits it would cost $14k. Your soil must drain relatively well also, I've heard of some nightmare prices once you get on clay. My Father-in-laws cost $34k on a bed of clay and shale.
 
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The only factors are : was it designed properly and was it used & maintained properly. If those two things are correct it will last indefinitely. The people who told you 40 years are probably the ones who sold you the system rebuild. Nearly all failures are due to modern households introducing microbe killing chemicals and grease to the system. This causes solids to enter and clog the drain field. Hence the swamp in your front or back yard from the solids tank overflow. Simple as that. A few pump outs and A little Rid-X over the years will save you the $20k.
In theory you are correct. Im talking about real life. Unfortunately, with family not everone is going to treat the septic system properly all the time. Fortunately our system was replaced by the previous owner prior to sale. I'm paranoid about what goes down the drain since the installers said they expect it to last 20 yrs!! And previous owners pumped the old system out every year.
 
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