Any chance it can be salvaged?Killed your lawn and my 3 acres of pasture. I’m now looking at 3 acres of straw and dust. Every time I look back there , I just drop my head in defeat.
Put on some Woody Guthrie?
Any chance it can be salvaged?Killed your lawn and my 3 acres of pasture. I’m now looking at 3 acres of straw and dust. Every time I look back there , I just drop my head in defeat.
The thunderstorms yesterday were much needed. Having a cookout Saturday but i'm praying it pours all of Friday/sat into sunday so I can put down my fertilizer.Killed your lawn and my 3 acres of pasture. I’m now looking at 3 acres of straw and dust. Every time I look back there , I just drop my head in defeat.
Hoping this rain.does the trick. Hopefully it just went dormant and not dead. But it’s pasture mix so I have no idea what to expect as this is my 1st time growing this blend.
My ground sucked those thunderstorms right up. By this afternoon the ground was bone dry again. I’m praying with you. I’ve got too much work and money involved to lose those 3 acres.The thunderstorms yesterday were much needed. Having a cookout Saturday but i'm praying it pours all of Friday/sat into sunday so I can put down my fertilizer.
Next couple of days, your prayers may be answered:My ground sucked those thunderstorms right up. By this afternoon the ground was bone dry again. I’m praying with you. I’ve got too much work and money involved to lose those 3 acres.
Cool season lawns have two peak growth periods - spring and fall. That's when you want to hit them with the high nitrogen fertilizers. During the summer lull, the grass grows much slower in response to the high temperatures and high sun angles. The high N synthetic fertilizers could stress and "burn" your lawn unless you deliver much lower than the per thousand feet rates advertised on the bag. You would be better served throwing down Milo or Oceangro. The iron will help it go greener and the lower nitrogen & phosphorus concentrations are much more in tune for hot weather feedings. And yes, Oceangro is locally sourced 😁.So the Lesco 30-0-5 shouldn't be used when its real hot because of the 30 Nitrogen? Can this only be used in the early spring or late fall? I see they sell the Milorganite at the Home Depot and Oceangro at Yardville Supply Im close to both of them. Do you prefer one product over the other? I see they both contain 2.5% Iron so that should green it up a little I believe.
Agree. Another approach you might take is to skip the dimension and use Mesotrione, which gives you a barrier of 30-40 days. You could spray Tenacity once or twice from now until you seed or you could use Scott’s Starter with Mesotrione that will give you some nitrogen (23 if I recall) and prevent weeds. You could also do one and one if you don’t want too much nitrogen. The great thing about Mesotrione is that you can seed with it (unlike most other pre-emergents).Cool season lawns have two peak growth periods - spring and fall. That's when you want to hit them with the high nitrogen fertilizers. During the summer lull, the grass grows much slower in response to the high temperatures and high sun angles. The high N synthetic fertilizers could stress and "burn" your lawn unless you deliver much lower than the per thousand feet rates advertised on the bag. You would be better served throwing down Milo or Oceangro. The iron will help it go greener and the lower nitrogen & phosphorus concentrations are much more in tune for hot weather feedings. And yes, Oceangro is locally sourced 😁.
Awesome! Best of luck. Keep us posted.
FYI... Ryegrass roots grow deeeeeeeep (in healthy soil). This might help your compaction .
It's pretty hard to damage your lawn with Oceangro...maybe if you bury the crowns with piles of the stuff 😆. If it rains after application you're ok too. This stuff works in the soil, much less than through direct contact with the plant leaves.So I purchased two bags of Oceangro at Yardville supply yesterday. I did not put it down today because of the incoming rain, tomorrow seems to be a wash too. Would I be ok putting it down on Saturday or Sunday with temps expected to be in the 90’s for a few days? I don’t wanna damage the lawn.
I put down Oceangro 6 weeks ago and you can still see the black pellets in the pastures. When they say slow release, they mean slow release. Unless you live on a side of a mountain where rain will wash it down the hill you'll have no worry's about it giving your plants too much fertilizer too quick.So I purchased two bags of Oceangro at Yardville supply yesterday. I did not put it down today because of the incoming rain, tomorrow seems to be a wash too. Would I be ok putting it down on Saturday or Sunday with temps expected to be in the 90’s for a few days? I don’t wanna damage the lawn.
Weed and Feed is 28% nitrogen and 24d weed killer while Sunnerguard is 20% nitrogen and bug control. What is your goal with this application?how much nitrogen are you planning on putting down this year and when? In my opinion it’s a bit late for a quick release nitrogen such as in these products. I’d probably put down miloganite or Oceangro for fertilizer and if you are trying to control weeds, you can use the best weed killer for your targets. If you’re trying to control grubs or some other bugs, then there are products that do that. I’m not a big fan of combination products but others love them and use them with success.Is it too late in the spring to put down Scott's Weed & Feed? Should I use their Summerguard product instead? Or is there a better blend to put down in Mid-June?
The Lesco has dimension as a pre emergent so you can put that down to extend your weed coverage and add some fertilizer. Some people love clover, some don’t—personal choice. I don’t like it. Ortho CCO with the active ingredient triclopyr will take it out. Tenacity should too but triclopyr is probably better here. You may need two applications. You can getOrthoCCO at a big box store such as HD.So I am about ready for a second application of Lesco 19-0-7 in order to keep the crabgrass at bay for the rest of the season. I did the first application around 3 months ago. I do have some patches of clover in my yard and am a bit disappointed in that development. Clover I understand has some beneficial properties including adding nitrogen to the soil? Is putting additional Lesco down exacerbating that situation or would that only be with the 30-0-05 product?
I googled getting rid of the clover and the suggested method is tenacity with two other component products and a gallon sized sprayer. I assume this could be done anytime.
ThanksThe Lesco has dimension as a pre emergent so you can put that down to extend your weed coverage and add some fertilizer. Some people love clover, some don’t—personal choice. I don’t like it. Ortho CCO with the active ingredient triclopyr will take it out. Tenacity should too but triclopyr is probably better here. You may need two applications. You can getOrthoCCO at a big box store such as HD.
I wouldn't kill clover. It's a natural soil amender.The Lesco has dimension as a pre emergent so you can put that down to extend your weed coverage and add some fertilizer. Some people love clover, some don’t—personal choice. I don’t like it. Ortho CCO with the active ingredient triclopyr will take it out. Tenacity should too but triclopyr is probably better here. You may need two applications. You can getOrthoCCO at a big box store such as HD.
My wife won't let me kill the clover in the backyard because the flowers are popular with pollinators. I still have the entire front yard to show off my lawn domination skills. Compromise.I wouldn't kill clover. It's a natural soil amender.
Oceangro and Milo are great! When you seed in the fall you can use Scott’s starter which is a fertilizer with Mesotrione (tenacity), or just spot treat with Tenacity. Tenacity will turn most weeds and weedy grasses white but won’t turn Kentucky Blue Grass, fescues, or perennial rye white.I put down 3 bags of Oceangro on June 5th and I can notice a difference already. Grass is growing more and is greener. Granted we did get a good amount of rain and the temps are not 90+ anymore so that helps. I did order some Tenacity and a Surfactant to use in my pump sprayer for summer weeds. I would like to seed and core aerate in the fall and from what I've been told and read Tenacity is the way to go for that. I did read it can make the grass a little discolored but it will bounce back. I believe the Oceangro recommends being reapplied in about 6 to 8 weeks, would I be ok doing that while spot spraying weeds with the Tenacity?
For those doing their own fertilization, what would you estimate you would spend to cover about 1/2 acre of grass for the typical number treatments? We got tired of buying and hauling bags, using the spreader, etc. Our lawn is looking good finally with the service we use. Costs about $650/year.Oceangro and Milo are great! When you seed in the fall you can use Scott’s starter which is a fertilizer with Mesotrione (tenacity), or just spot treat with Tenacity. Tenacity will turn most weeds and weedy grasses white but won’t turn Kentucky Blue Grass, fescues, or perennial rye white.
My wife won't let me kill the clover in the backyard because the flowers are popular with pollinators. I still have the entire front yard to show off my lawn domination skills. Compromise.
Your wife's way is best, I'm always reminded of this meme when people use pesticides. And it's true, I think the estimate is about 4yrs. after extinction the human race will no longer be able to sustain a viable plant food source.My wife won't let me kill the clover in the backyard because the flowers are popular with pollinators. I still have the entire front yard to show off my lawn domination skills. Compromise.
Your wife's way is best, I'm always reminded of this meme when people use pesticides. And it's true, I think the estimate is about 4yrs. after extinction the human race will no longer be able to sustain a viable plant food source.
I'm very leery of Monsantos. I mean a company which got it's start by making Agent Orange is making something you put on the food you eat. Then all the lobbying and money they throw at Senators and Congressman to make sure they can keep selling their RoundUp and other crap? This one has all the smell, looks and touch of being just another Big Tobacco coverup.This thread has killed millions of bees. 😀
Sometimes I think I could get cancer just reading it.
There are a number of variables to consider when it comes to cost: amount of NPK per application and total for the year, fast release vs slow release, organic vs synthetic, etc. I prefer organic slow release such as Oceangro or Miloganite. You could do four applications in the year of Oceangro on 1/2 acre for about $300 per year. Actually less if your fall application is 46-0-0 urea. When using a service, labor is generally at least 1/2 the total cost. Here is an article that touches on some of this. https://www.fixr.com/costs/lawn-fertilization#cost-to-fertilize-lawn-per-sq-ftFor those doing their own fertilization, what would you estimate you would spend to cover about 1/2 acre of grass for the typical number treatments? We got tired of buying and hauling bags, using the spreader, etc. Our lawn is looking good finally with the service we use. Costs about $650/year.
Big agriculture is really bad news for everyone. Kinda like big tech. People need to get off of the chemical amendments that are caused by fixation on a perfect lawn. It's so hard to produce (chemicals required) because most people's soils are not meant to maintain that type of monoculture.I'm very leery of Monsantos. I mean a company which got it's start by making Agent Orange is making something you put on the food you eat. Then all the lobbying and money they throw at Senators and Congressman to make sure they can keep selling their RoundUp and other crap? This one has all the smell, looks and touch of being just another Big Tobacco coverup.
We only cut our lawn and never water it or use any fertilizer for the last 30 years. Maintain it as little as possible. Lot of clover and various weeds. The grass is green but lots of weeds. IS it worth it for one of those chemical companies to spread their chemicals or fertilizer to get rid of the weed? Does it work getting rid of weeds?
We only cut our lawn and never water it or use any fertilizer for the last 30 years. Maintain it as little as possible. Lot of clover and various weeds. The grass is green but lots of weeds. IS it worth it for one of those chemical companies to spread their chemicals or fertilizer to get rid of the weed? Does it work getting rid of weeds?
Yep. I'm a DIYer, and you've got a multiyear project with incremental benefits in front of you. When I bought my house 6 years ago the lawn was a thin weedy mess. Now it is one that my neighbors stop when walking by, to comment on how good it looks (and it is by no means "perfect").It will get rid of the weeds but you might be left with a lot of bare soil which will make it harder to grow grass. You are better off using an organic fertilizer and over seeding with grass seed. As your soil improves the grass will outcompete the weeds.
Killing everything and starting over is much harder imo.
Looks like a brake rotor mounted to a tiller handle with some cold rolled steel tubing welded to the rotor. I guess it would work.So I spot sprayed Tenacity 9 days ago. The crabgrass is turning white but still seems to be growing? The tips are turning brown though. I may do another spot treatment on Sunday.
Regarding fall over seeding. I am probably gonna order from Hogan Seed this week a tall fescue blend. Would August 28th be to early to over seed in NJ? I plan on cutting the grass low before hand, then dethatch. I have to find someone to core aerate in Hamilton. Any suggestions? If I am missing something with the over seed process please advise.
Any of you lawn guys ever see this? Thoughts
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Have you ever aerated or do you know someone who does it around us? Yup I think it’s a brake rotor. Pretty neat ideaLooks like a brake rotor mounted to a tiller handle with some cold rolled steel tubing welded to the rotor. I guess it would work.
I've never mechanically aerated. My neighbor did it once; rented a machine from Home Depot. It was loud & heavy and took a lot of energy to control it and without a pickup truck to transport it I decided it wasn't for me LOL. The closest I get to aerating is spraying Air8 on my lawn once a year.Have you ever aerated or do you know someone who does it around us? Yup I think it’s a brake rotor. Pretty neat idea
I'm no expert either but I don't believe Topdressing or aerating aren't a must for overseeding. They can help but not a must. The key is soil to seed contact, so as an alternative you need to cut the lawn low , dethach, and us a seeder to get the seeds deep enough into the soil (about 1/4 of an inch deep). Get good seeds too ( I'm doing 4th millennium Tall Fescue this year).If any of you guys over seeded before is topdressing a must? Same with aerating?