OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread
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My lawn is crap. I don’t have the time to make it amazing but I want to at least make it respectable. Here are my issues
1. Backyard has one spot that gets almost no sun. It gets mosquitoes and moss more than grass. I feel like I should just give up having a lawn there and just go with.....???? A tree and mulch??
2. The rest of my small backyard gets a ton of sun and by mid summer the grass dries out and dies. I water the lawn daily at night. What is the best grass to get for it? The same area gets a ton of weeds. Dandelion, clover (which doesn’t bother me as much, and tons of crabgrass.). The crabgrass infuriates me. My neighbor’s yard is very overrun with the crap. I hate it
3. I live in scotch plains and my area seems to get a ton of weeds. I also don’t think my backyard soil is all that good. Very compact. Very rocky. I was thinking of buying a step aerator.
any advice is greatly appreciated. I don’t have a ton of time but I put in enough I think to make my lawn respectable. But I know I’m making some bad decisions and so I’m asking the experts for some advice.
I am in the process of raking off all of the dead grass and I want to aerate soon too. I know I need to plant seed soon
1. Backyard has one spot that gets almost no sun. It gets mosquitoes and moss more than grass. I feel like I should just give up having a lawn there and just go with.....???? A tree and mulch??
2. The rest of my small backyard gets a ton of sun and by mid summer the grass dries out and dies. I water the lawn daily at night. What is the best grass to get for it? The same area gets a ton of weeds. Dandelion, clover (which doesn’t bother me as much, and tons of crabgrass.). The crabgrass infuriates me. My neighbor’s yard is very overrun with the crap. I hate it
3. I live in scotch plains and my area seems to get a ton of weeds. I also don’t think my backyard soil is all that good. Very compact. Very rocky. I was thinking of buying a step aerator.
any advice is greatly appreciated. I don’t have a ton of time but I put in enough I think to make my lawn respectable. But I know I’m making some bad decisions and so I’m asking the experts for some advice.
I am in the process of raking off all of the dead grass and I want to aerate soon too. I know I need to plant seed soon
So Corey and I got the fencing in on our front bed. Here's a shot:
The fencing is there for multiple purposes. First, it's to keep the landscapers from blowing it with their leaf blower brigade, doing unwanted trimming on our bushes and cutting things back at the end of the season when the plants are not supposed to be touched. Oh, yeah, we also want to keep the landscapers from pulling up plants which haven't revived yet. They did that at the beginning of last summer. Second, we have a groundhog which loves our hosta plant. In years past we've had to put a chicken wire cage over it as can be seen here:
Otherwise the little varmint eats it to the ground. Third, it's also to keep the deer out, although it isn't very high. But what I intend to do is have a layer of deer netting attached to the rocks in back which I pull over the top. That's also intended as further protection against our wonderful landscapers.
The fencing is there for multiple purposes. First, it's to keep the landscapers from blowing it with their leaf blower brigade, doing unwanted trimming on our bushes and cutting things back at the end of the season when the plants are not supposed to be touched. Oh, yeah, we also want to keep the landscapers from pulling up plants which haven't revived yet. They did that at the beginning of last summer. Second, we have a groundhog which loves our hosta plant. In years past we've had to put a chicken wire cage over it as can be seen here:
Otherwise the little varmint eats it to the ground. Third, it's also to keep the deer out, although it isn't very high. But what I intend to do is have a layer of deer netting attached to the rocks in back which I pull over the top. That's also intended as further protection against our wonderful landscapers.
I would be concerned if I had a well. Maybe consider an organic method. Recently came across these guys. Happens to be a Rutgers guy as well.
Organic Landscaping Company Princeton, NJ | Organic Landscaper
Richard A. McCoy Horticultural Services is an organic landscaping company serving homeowners and businesses in the greater Princeton, NJ area.
mccoyfinegardens.com
You can weed & feed in the Spring since you will need to provide fertilizer to the lawn while also adding some herbicide to control the weeds. My plan is to also do it in April since the lawn is coming out of the dormant stage now that the temperature is increasing into the mid 60s and low 70s in NJ. You can also get a handheld pump and do some spot treatments or a dial sprayer if you have lots of weeds all over the yard.
I’m also some what new at this lawn care thing so don’t take my word for it and do some of the research yourself (is a bit fun in a weird way). There are tons of YouTube channels like the Lawn Care Nut and Ryan Knorr that make it some what reasonably easy to learn and experiment.
Full disclosure... i'm also a bit new at this lawn care thing.
If you plan to overseed in the Fall you can’t do preemergent in October since the seeds will not germinate. Your best bet is to control your weeds now and plan for overseeding in the Fall. Depending on your Herbicide you will need to do your last spry by August and allow 4 weeks before overseeding in September when temperatures start to drop in the mid 70s (Fall).Try to get quality seeds to make sure you get the results you are looking for.
So if I were you I will probably get a dial sprayer like the Ortho brand and get some of the Ortho Be Gone Herbicides, usually cheap and easy to handle. I would also get a handheld pump (or battery) and do some spot treatments during the spring and early summer. You usually cannot put herbicide when the weather is above 85 F degrees or you may damage your lawn.
Below is the link for some great lawn care channels on YouTube in where you will learn a ton in a season.
Fix an Ugly Lawn with Overseeding // Complete Step by Step Guide For Beginners - Great channel with lots of videos
Lawn Care Tips for Beginners | Fix Your Lawn In 3 Steps from Allyn Hane, The Lawn Care Nut - Same as the above
Dial 'N Spray Hose End Sprayer
32 oz. Weed B Gon Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate
REED & PERRINE in Tennent NJ near Marlboro NJ - They have good quality seeds in the area at a very good price. I got 50 lbs for about $100 of really good Tall Fescue
I have a similar problem with my backyard as well with lots of moss. I hate it!! I thought I got it last Fall but it came back super fast.
The biggest problem you will have is time. It takes time to deal with all this lawn care thing which is why most people pay someone to do it. It might be a good idea to get someone to help but you will need a few weekends to get some of this stuff done.
So my plan for my backyard is to dethatch and aerate the lawn and overseed in the Spring. After dethatching the lawn I plan to also put some MossOut or Bioadvance Moss Killer (see links below). I still need to figure out if I can use the chemicals and overseed. If not, I will just dethatch and aerate.
I plan to use a Fine Fescues seed that does super well in the heavy shade. Last fall I used a really good Tall Fescues that does well is moderate shade but that didn’t work very well. After 4 weeks (establish lawn) + 3 cuts of the lawn I will start attacking any weeds with herbicide (will have to find a herbicide that does well in the summer). I will overseed again in the Fall by doing the same thing as above.
I’m starting experimenting with pest by using the products in the Domyown.com (mosquitos, ants. etc.). Doesn’t seem very hard but we will see. Just plan to be careful using the chemicals since I have 2 little boys + myself ( don’t want to get cancer).
Best grass I think is Tall Fescues because it looks good, does well in the summer and late Fall, germinates quickly and doesn’t require as much water. Most people love Kentucky Blue Grass it takes longer to germinate and requires more water (twice as much). You can add some perennial ryegrass to your mix if you want an even fast gemination.
Like I mentioned in a prior post, get a dial sprayer like the Ortho brand and get some of the Ortho Be Gone Herbicides, usually cheap and easy to handle. I would also get a handheld pump (or battery) and do some spot treatments during the spring and early summer.
GET A POWER RAKE!! Raking moss by hand sucks!!! They have these at home depot for rent for about $50-60 for 4 hours. Same thing for an aerator. Don’t buy a step aerator (I wasted my money on that too)
Some of the products that could help you:
- Weed B Gon Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate
- Dial 'N Spray Hose End Sprayer
- 20 lb. Moss Out! Lawn Granules
- 32 oz. Ready-to-Spray 2-in-1 Moss and Algae Killer
- REED & PERRINE in Tennent NJ near Marlboro NJ
- Domyown.com - TalStar P is supposedly good for mosquitos and other insects and has a long lasting effect (21 days)
GoKu: I’m in Scotch Plains, too. Newark Ave. I’ve been doing my lawn for years. Ping me, would be happy to share some thoughts.
I’d follow their recommendations but I would fertilize late spring, September then mid November. I think I’ve
Posted this before in this thread and others but here is a calculator that lets you develop a plan of when to fertilize and how much to use based on the fertilizer type and formula.
New Jersey Fertilizer Calculator
Rutgers NJAES Fertilizer Calculator for homeowners with established lawns. Answers for Homeowners about the 2011 NJ Fertilizer Law.
rutgersnjfertilizerapp.blogspot.com
In my opinion, no problem as long as you use as directed. I would not spray or apply within 3’ of the well.
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Trying to grow grass where there is no sun is next to impossible. Fine and creeping fescues do better in shade, as do some cultivars of other types but you could prune some beaches to get more light, or forgo the grass in that area and do something else like you say.
A good pre emergent like Dimension will keep crab grass, dandelions,and other weeds away if applied appropriately as per the label. Good luck!
Replying to Eddy, if I seed 1st week of September and then apply dimension in late October/early November, you still think it will prevent the seed/grass from establishing? I was told I would be fine with about an 8-week gap, but now I don’t know.
I wouldn't risk it. The Fall is the prime time to overseed. By October and November I don't think you need to add pre emergent (crabgrass is dead and everything else is dormant due to the temperature). I would do the pre emergent in the Spring of next year instead of the late Fall of this year. Keep in mind that some seeds take longer to germinate (Kentucky Blue takes 4 weeks while Tall Fescue takes 2 weeks). Also most herbicide required 2-3 cuts prior to applying to a new lawn.
Take a look at the Lawn Care Nut youtube channel. Lots of good content that will help you.
Thanks again. This thread has been a very good resource so thank you to all the contributors.
Based on my research it looks I like should plan on the following annual schedule.
Early Spring - Dimension fertilizer and pre-emergent
Early June - fertilizer and post-emergent application
Mid July - summer fertilizer with insect control
Mid September - fertilizer and seeding
2 questions: Should I use Scott’s turf builder weed and feed for the June and Scott’s Summerguard for the July applications or should I be looking for another brand?
Is the above schedule overkill on the fertilizer (4 fertilizer applications)?
Thanks again
Based on my research it looks I like should plan on the following annual schedule.
Early Spring - Dimension fertilizer and pre-emergent
Early June - fertilizer and post-emergent application
Mid July - summer fertilizer with insect control
Mid September - fertilizer and seeding
2 questions: Should I use Scott’s turf builder weed and feed for the June and Scott’s Summerguard for the July applications or should I be looking for another brand?
Is the above schedule overkill on the fertilizer (4 fertilizer applications)?
Thanks again
Almost all pre-m is ok to put on new seedlings 60 days after germination. Depending on the type of grass seed you go with, that would be anywhere from 67 days to 81 days after seed down. Start a bit earlier in the summer (early Aug) allows you to get a fall pre-m done.
Best thing to do now if you want to do a fall renovation is to get a soil test(s). Rutgers co-op extensions does a great job especially this time of year. Stop by and hand over your $20 and they give you a burlap bag. Go home, fill it with a mix of soil from around the yard and mail it to them. A week later you will get back specific instructions on how to prepare you yard ahead of the job
Best thing to do now if you want to do a fall renovation is to get a soil test(s). Rutgers co-op extensions does a great job especially this time of year. Stop by and hand over your $20 and they give you a burlap bag. Go home, fill it with a mix of soil from around the yard and mail it to them. A week later you will get back specific instructions on how to prepare you yard ahead of the job
The above sounds good. Scott has a v4 step program that you can also follow (see like below)
.
I also think the max rate for fertilizer for cool season lawn is around 2-6 lbs per year based on your lawn type.
How to Start the Scotts 4 Step Program | Scotts
www.scotts.com
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For anyone else following Allyn Hane the Lawn Care Nut and bought his Flagship fertilizer...that stuff is funky fresh! It's definitely not a chemical smell, like when you open a bag of Scotts. It is much more on the "Smells like success" end of the spectrum. 💩
So, lawn was treated by service 2 or so weeks ago, and I have a ton of this--what is it, and should I call him back for remediation?
Looks like Chickweed.So, lawn was treated by service 2 or so weeks ago, and I have a ton of this--what is it, and should I call him back for remediation?
Welcome to lawn care in NJ.
EDIT: Nope. Hairy bittercress.
I struggle identifying weeds too. I have used PlantNet app on Android with mix results to identify weeds with a picture.
Just checked using the app and is 59% chance that it is woodland bittercress.
play.google.com
Just checked using the app and is 59% chance that it is woodland bittercress.
PlantNet Plant Identification - Apps on Google Play
Observation and help for the identification of wild plants
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I agree with RUrich, likely hairy bittercress. It germinates in early fall. If I’m not seeding, I do a fall pre emergent for winter annuals that germinate in the fall (e.g., hairy bittercress, Poa annua,
This should control It as a post emergent.emergent.
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It is definitely Hairy Bittercress. As phs wrote it is a winter annual that can be prevented with a fall pre-m. The good news is it dies pretty early in the spring. Will be gone after 2 or 3 mows if you just want to ignore it for now.
I called the lawn service and they said they will come out and hit it with a selective herbicide. We had quite the outbreak.
Thanks for the quick replies. You guys are awesome.
After having pretty much my entire front lawn fall victim to a fungus early last fall, decided to pretty much go "scorched earth" - having the landscaper that takes care of other properties in the neighborhood (as well as our house prior to our purchase) come to rip it up and reseed, will be over seeding and aerating in the fall. Also having them handle fertilizer, insecticides, etc. , whos
Back yard is looking good other than a few patches of crabgrass. Will probably rake those up and throw down some seed. Like my dad always said, "its green and its growing, who else is gonna see it?"
Back yard is looking good other than a few patches of crabgrass. Will probably rake those up and throw down some seed. Like my dad always said, "its green and its growing, who else is gonna see it?"
A full renovation (nuking it with roundup, fallow) is in my opinion more effective than trying to overseed. Don’t go cheap on the seed. If I were doing a full renovation (or otherwise even just overseeding)I use sod quality seed with zero “weed seed” and zero “other crop.” Make sure your guys know what there doing. You might invest some time in reading up on what is involved, even if you hire someone to do it. Good luck!
Hogan Seed is fabulous. Super helpful with questions and other advice too.
Turf Grasses Springfield | Native Grasses | The Hogan Company
Buy various seeds and mixes for turf and native grasses from The Hogan Company in Springfield, TN today. We carry a selection of agricultural supplies.
Yes,Hogan is great. Some others are Preferred, Pawnee Buttes, Super Seed Store, and a few more.Hogan Seed is fabulous. Super helpful with questions and other advice too.
Turf Grasses Springfield | Native Grasses | The Hogan Company
Buy various seeds and mixes for turf and native grasses from The Hogan Company in Springfield, TN today. We carry a selection of agricultural supplies.thehogancompany.us
Did my first cut today after putting down the Lesco 30-0-5 with Dimension 0.21% about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Grass grows fast. I still notice a lot of what looks like Spurge weed that grows mostly close to the sidewalk. It looks like I can use this Ortho product for the spurge and ground ivy I have in my back yard. Im just worried about putting it down so close to using the Lesco. Could it be to soon and damage the grass?
Ortho Weed B Gon 32 oz. Chickweed, Clover and Oxalis Killer For Lawns Ready-To-Spray 0398710 - The Home Depot
Are you tired of bothersome weeds creeping into your lawn? Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis Killer for Lawns Ready-To-Spray is formulated to kill tough weeds in your lawn. The formula kills
www.homedepot.com
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So Dimension is a pre emergent and the ortho product is a post emergent so you should be okay to be able to use both. Pre emergent focus on preventing weeds from establishing while post emergent focus on weeds that are already established. But try to do a bit more research so you feel comfortable with your decision. You probably can call Lesco and ask them too.Did my first cut today after putting down the Lesco 30-0-5 with Dimension 0.21% about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Grass grows fast. I still notice a lot of what looks like Spurge weed that grows mostly close to the sidewalk. It looks like I can use this Ortho product for the spurge and ground ivy I have in my back yard. Im just worried about putting it down so close to using the Lesco. Could it be to soon and damage the grass?
Ortho Weed B Gon 32 oz. Chickweed, Clover and Oxalis Killer For Lawns Ready-To-Spray 0398710 - The Home Depot
Are you tired of bothersome weeds creeping into your lawn? Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis Killer for Lawns Ready-To-Spray is formulated to kill tough weeds in your lawn. The formula killswww.homedepot.com
See response from domyown.com as well.
Timing in between applying a post emergent herbicide and a pre-emergent herbicide
I have a landscape company in San Jose California – mostly all cool season grass, I understand that post emergent herbicide should be applied when soil temperatures are 55°F to kill crabgrass oxalis etc. however they work only for a short period of time Once applied can I use a pre-emergent...
www.domyown.com
So while I was in Virginia, the #$(&#$^#}#* landscapers came through with their blower brigade and appeared to completely ignore the fencing I put up, looks like they may have even gone over it. So onto the next step, more posts to sturdy the fence and deer netting over the top. I wonder if I have to put up signs: "Landscaper Free Zone". Or maybe get cardboard cutouts of ICE agents.
Radioactive chemical fertilizer spill in Tampa.
news.yahoo.com
Florida declares state of emergency over toxic wastewater leak
More than 300 homes in the Tampa Bay area have been ordered to be evacuated.
I agree with previous response that you can use both. Dimension is a pre emergent and only has some post emergent control over young crab grass. Ortho CCO would work as a post emergent.Did my first cut today after putting down the Lesco 30-0-5 with Dimension 0.21% about 2 or 3 weeks ago. Grass grows fast. I still notice a lot of what looks like Spurge weed that grows mostly close to the sidewalk. It looks like I can use this Ortho product for the spurge and ground ivy I have in my back yard. Im just worried about putting it down so close to using the Lesco. Could it be to soon and damage the grass?
Ortho Weed B Gon 32 oz. Chickweed, Clover and Oxalis Killer For Lawns Ready-To-Spray 0398710 - The Home Depot
Are you tired of bothersome weeds creeping into your lawn? Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis Killer for Lawns Ready-To-Spray is formulated to kill tough weeds in your lawn. The formula killswww.homedepot.com
Judith Stanley became a Parkway Commissioner and wanted to make the GSP look nicer.
The grass cutting Dept ordered over $ 500,000 in live plants, with burlap sacked balls to be planted. One day the plants were all delivered. Put down back in the overflow parking lots for the Arts Center. ON TOP OF THE ASHPALT pavement.
So much for that order of plants.
Ad's for 'Canada Green" grass are all over my cable tv.
Our 3 dogs seem to have done a lot of damage ?
Will it work ?
Meanwhile company True Green did a satellite estimate of around 225 per application with 7 or 8 applications thru till winter.
Ripped off or should I go with them. as I am only looking to work on my tan at the pool or go for nice walks with Mary Anne this summer.
Our 3 dogs seem to have done a lot of damage ?
Will it work ?
Meanwhile company True Green did a satellite estimate of around 225 per application with 7 or 8 applications thru till winter.
Ripped off or should I go with them. as I am only looking to work on my tan at the pool or go for nice walks with Mary Anne this summer.
If I remember your previous posts correctly, you have no interest in doing lawn care yourself. That’s fine, I never question individual choices with regard to discretionary spending of time and dollars. I will suggest that if i were to hire someone, I’d ask for a detailed description of exactly what they are putting down (active ingredient, chemical formulation) when, at what rate, and if they are doing this on a soil analysis they should run. With that information, I’d ask a university extension or other trusted source to validate if what they are recommending is appropriate for you. Also, I’d be around when they do “applications.” I have some neighbors that hire this out and have watched the applicators be less than thorough. An active surveillance is your friend— think about Bobby in your previous life.
Full disclosure, I do not use these guys or True Green. But as you stated I constantly get estimates in the mail from both and for the most part TLC's estimate is usually half that of True Green. If you are looking to go this route you may want to check them out and do a comparison of both.
Funny you mention the hair bittercress. After my outbreak, I called the company. They were supposed to come out the same day to hit the hair bittercress. They did not show. The owner gets on the phone and said that we were the first lawns they treated, and because it was so cold, the tank may have been frozen and we might not have gotten a dose of pre-emergent. Not to worry he told me, they would be out early this week and all would be well. We have a hairy bittercress pasture. I spent some time pulling the largest plants, but this second treatment better get the job done, or I'm done with this service.
Hairy bittercress germinates in the late summer or fall so any pre emergent applied this spring won’t prevent it. He should hit it with a post emergent. He’s either lying or doesn’t know his business.
Or maybe I'm not a good listener--I could have misheard him. My post summoned him to my yard. Guy is out their now on his ride-on scooter thing dropping hairy bittercress bombs and hopefully some nutrients. My POA is dying a slow death, and I am good with that.
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