ADVERTISEMENT

OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread

Like @Postman_1 said November is too late. I will be doing the aerating, slow release fertilizer(ocean gro) and seeding next week. I can't irrigate 3 acres so I wait till temps cool a little, allowing the ground to hold moisture longer. It worked out OK last year, probably would have worked even better if it wasn't pasture mix. Pasture mix I found is harder to grow then the endophyte fescues.
Okay so skip the weed and feed this fall and use a slow release/starter fertilizer. I'll also be using compost. Thanks!
 
I'm overseeding my front lawn soon, probably about 10k to 12k sq ft. I dont have a sprinkler system. Any thoughts on best way to keep it wet?

I see neighbor has several sprinklers split off one hose so was thinking of that approach (guess we have good water pressure). Or am i better getting one higher volume sprinkler. Working from home so i can run out there and move things around, but wanted to see if any better ideas. Do those traveling sprinklers work? Seems like reviews say they tend to fall over or get stuck.

And do you think aerating, or dethatching (hasnt been done in over 10 years) is more worthwhile?
From all my research aerating seems like the best choice. I have a tripod sprinkler that covers 85 sq ft. Would like to find a more powerful 1 but it definitely covers some space.
 
I'm in Clayton De (20 minutes north of Dover). We were in the 90s this week which is why i held off. We normally don't get our 1st frost until late October so do you suggest i aerate then fertilize? Or wait until spring to aerate/overseed?
Most of the stuff I've read suggest overseeding in the late summer/early fall and some say spring is a waste. I got rid of True Green this year and am still learning. If your first frost is late Oct then now or within 7 days would be good for overseeding. Core aeration is the best type from what I read. You can use a starter fertilizer after overseeding but make sure it does not have a weed killer in it only safe one is mesotrione (Tenacity). Scotts has a starter with this. My grass grows pretty quickly so I have not fertilized my new seeds yet. I probably will this week with OceanGro a slow realease fertilizer. I dont want my existing grass to grow so fast it chokes out the new grass. My lawn was pretty thick already.

Check out Ryan Knorr on Youtube. Also Lawn Care Nut and Pest the Lawn Ginja all are pretty informative. Im still learning and get a lot of info from them and others on here.
 
Most of the stuff I've read suggest overseeding in the late summer/early fall and some say spring is a waste. I got rid of True Green this year and am still learning. If your first frost is late Oct then now or within 7 days would be good for overseeding. Core aeration is the best type from what I read. You can use a starter fertilizer after overseeding but make sure it does not have a weed killer in it only safe one is mesotrione (Tenacity). Scotts has a starter with this. My grass grows pretty quickly so I have not fertilized my new seeds yet. I probably will this week with OceanGro a slow realease fertilizer. I dont want my existing grass to grow so fast it chokes out the new grass. My lawn was pretty thick already.

Check out Ryan Knorr on Youtube. Also Lawn Care Nut and Pest the Lawn Ginja all are pretty informative. Im still learning and get a lot of info from them and others on here.
I just got a bag of Lesco starter fertilizer 18-24-12 $40 covers 15,000 sq ft will probably aerate monday or tuesday since i need to cut the grass. I've never used Lesco products but i've heard the name plenty in this thread.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Postman_1
Most of the stuff I've read suggest overseeding in the late summer/early fall and some say spring is a waste. I got rid of True Green this year and am still learning. If your first frost is late Oct then now or within 7 days would be good for overseeding.
I'm in Delaware i don't believe it gets below 32 degrees until late November.
 
I had a fungus problem this year. Too wet and then too humid for too long. I raked up the dead spots and reseeded yesterday. I also cut it 1/2 shorter so when the living plants grow taller, they will cover up the dead plants more. In theory it will work. I plan on hitting it with 24-0-6 Tuesday so it gets watered in naturally on Wednesday.
 
Looking ahead of today's light snow, wondering what these two weeds are that are doing quite well in the cold winter weather. Spread throughout the lawn as well as in some of the mulched beds (weed 2).

Do something now to kill them or wait until Spring? @phs73rc77gsm83 ?

Weed 1:

iaZySCz.jpg



Weed 2 (the bigger problem):

MFrUMBe.jpg
 
First one is some sort of thistle. Second one is bittercress. By spring the chickweed will have pretty white flowers.
Can't do anything till spring
I agree with Rock. You can use triclopyr (e.g., Ortho CCO with the purple label), which is labeled for both. Wait until it’s growing in early spring. Don’t let the bittercress go to seed!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Knight Shift
First one is some sort of thistle. Second one is bittercress. By spring the chickweed will have pretty white flowers.
Can't do anything till spring

I agree with Rock. You can use triclopyr (e.g., Ortho CCO with the purple label), which is labeled for both. Wait until it’s growing in early spring. Don’t let the bittercress go to seed!
Thank you both. I suppose we could harvest the bittercress and eat it?🥗

 
  • Like
Reactions: phs73rc77gsm83
  • Like
Reactions: Knight Shift
This weather has been unbelievable with the temps in the 50s-60s, got a feeling we pay for this with a classic march nor'easter BUT until that time comes if these temps continue down here in Dover we hit 68 today i'll be aerating early march then immediately putting down crabgrass emergent then after a good rain put down compost.
 
This weather has been unbelievable with the temps in the 50s-60s, got a feeling we pay for this with a classic march nor'easter BUT until that time comes if these temps continue down here in Dover we hit 68 today i'll be aerating early march then immediately putting down crabgrass emergent then after a good rain put down compost.
It's a race here to get my final fencing in, grade and seeded by mid-March.

Just got trees down, tree trimmer for fence lines is coming this weekend. In the meantime, we've been grading with the 40 yds. of topsoil I've made the past few years.(I'll have to order more)Fence is scheduled to come 1st week of March then it's York rake, pasture seed and slow-release fertilizer(Ocean-Gro), finally harrow rake in.

I have to take advantage of the cool, rainy months as there's no way to irrigate the amount I'm doing, about 3 acres. In mid to late September, we'll do just aerate and overseed/slow-release fertilizer. This worked really well the last two times. As the seed grew in tufts without destroying everything already growing and then spread.

My question for this Lawn consortium, the seed and slow-release fertilizer together shouldn't be a problem, should it? The Ocean Gro takes about a month and a half to break down.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: miket007
It's a race here to get my final fencing in, grade and seeded by mid-March.

Just got trees down, tree trimmer for fence lines is coming this weekend. In the meantime, we've been grading with the 40 yds. of topsoil I've made the past few years.(I'll have to order more)Fence is scheduled to come 1st week of March then it's York rake, pasture seed and slow-release fertilizer(Ocean-Gro), finally harrow rake in.

I have to take advantage of the cool, rainy months as there's no way to irrigate the amount I'm doing, about 3 acres. In mid to late September, we'll do just aerate and overseed/slow-release fertilizer. This worked really well the last two times. As the seed grew in tufts without destroying everything already growing and then spread.

My question for this Lawn consortium, the seed and slow-release fertilizer together shouldn't be a problem, should it? The Ocean Gro takes about a month and a half to break down.

No problem with seed and slow release fert!
 
So if I get an early start is it possible to overseed in early March AND put down traditional/long lasting pre-emergent for crabgrass a little on the late side In April?
 
So if I get an early start is it possible to overseed in early March AND put down traditional/long lasting pre-emergent for crabgrass a little on the late side In April?
It’d be much better to wait 4 about months or more after seeding before you use a pre-emergent. That allows the lawn to get established. A better alternative, in my view, would be to seed and put a Starter Fertilizer with Mesotrione (e.g., Scott’s Starter with Mesotrione) around the time the forsythia bloom. Mesotrione will let grass germinate but block many other weeds and crab grass. Mesotrione only gives you about 30 days protection, though, so you could do a few applications 30 days apart and do the longer lasting pre-emergent later. I have done this with success.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone have any experience with the Toro Timemaster 30" push mower? Im thinking of getting one as an upgrade over my 21" push mower that is now 8 years old. The main benefit is saving time while cutting. It will just be for residential use. Not really interested in a rider as I only have around 8000 sq ft to cut. Plus a lot of corners and tight spots.
 
Does anyone have any experience with the Toro Timemaster 30" push mower? Im thinking of getting one as an upgrade over my 21" push mower that is now 8 years old. The main benefit is saving time while cutting. It will just be for residential use. Not really interested in a rider as I only have around 8000 sq ft to cut. Plus a lot of corners and tight spots.
I looked at the Toro Timemaster 30” and thought it is a solid mower. I ended up getting the xMark 30” and love it. I have a John Deere rider but I almost never use it because I prefer to walk. Also, to me the xMark gives me a better cut than the JD. I don’t think you can go wrong with the Toro. You might look at the Toro Timemaster vs Toro Turfmaster, both fine mowers and both have fans. Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Postman_1
I looked at the Toro Timemaster 30” and thought it is a solid mower. I ended up getting the xMark 30” and love it. I have a John Deere rider but I almost never use it because I prefer to walk. Also, to me the xMark gives me a better cut than the JD. I don’t think you can go wrong with the Toro. You might look at the Toro Timemaster vs Toro Turfmaster, both fine mowers and both have fans. Good luck!
Yeah I have been reading and researching the Timemaster for a while now. It seems that the people that complain about it use it for commercial use. Toro makes the Turfmaster for that class. I checked out the xMark30" online that thing is awesome. It's it commercial grade as well. The engine in the xMark30" and Turfmaster are better then the Timemaster and the price reflects that. There does not seem to be to many options for wide area push mowers. The price of the Timemaster went up about $200 since last summer. The Home Depot near me just got them in for the first time last week. I may purchase one this weekend while they are in stock. I called a Toro dealer near me and they said they are very hard to get and are not sure when they are getting them back in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: phs73rc77gsm83
Yeah I have been reading and researching the Timemaster for a while now. It seems that the people that complain about it use it for commercial use. Toro makes the Turfmaster for that class. I checked out the xMark30" online that thing is awesome. It's it commercial grade as well. The engine in the xMark30" and Turfmaster are better then the Timemaster and the price reflects that. There does not seem to be to many options for wide area push mowers. The price of the Timemaster went up about $200 since last summer. The Home Depot near me just got them in for the first time last week. I may purchase one this weekend while they are in stock. I called a Toro dealer near me and they said they are very hard to get and are not sure when they are getting them back in.
Good research! I don’t think you can go wrong either way,
 
  • Like
Reactions: Postman_1
As far as Toro mowers go I strongly recommend a model that has the personal pace feature. Most self propelled mowers tear up your lawn at turns and when pulling backwards Since the self propelled wheels continue to turn at full speed. The personal pace system eliminates that since the self propelled function is tied to your hand pressure on the push bar. When you ease up for a turn or pull backwards the wheels don’t spin and tear up your grass.
 
  • Like
Reactions: phs73rc77gsm83
Does anyone have any experience with the Toro Timemaster 30" push mower? Im thinking of getting one as an upgrade over my 21" push mower that is now 8 years old. The main benefit is saving time while cutting. It will just be for residential use. Not really interested in a rider as I only have around 8000 sq ft to cut. Plus a lot of corners and tight spots.
How long does it take you to cut 8,000 square feet with a 21" mower?
What is the estimated time you will save with the Toro Timemaster 30"?

I think we have closer to 13,000 SF, and I mostly mow with a John Deere tractor mower, which I can get the entire yard done in under 20 minutes. When I have mowed with our older 21" Honda mower in the fall, I can complete mowing in under an hour.

I checked out the prices on the Timemaster, and they run about $1400? Personally, I would not spend that much on a mower, but I'm cheap.
 
How long does it take you to cut 8,000 square feet with a 21" mower?
What is the estimated time you will save with the Toro Timemaster 30"?

I think we have closer to 13,000 SF, and I mostly mow with a John Deere tractor mower, which I can get the entire yard done in under 20 minutes. When I have mowed with our older 21" Honda mower in the fall, I can complete mowing in under an hour.

I checked out the prices on the Timemaster, and they run about $1400? Personally, I would not spend that much on a mower, but I'm cheap.
It def takes me under a hour just to mow. It may only save me 15 minutes or so per cut but Im due for a upgrade/new mower anyway. When I combine it with edging, weed waking and the blower closer to 1.5 hours. Yeah the Timemaster is currently $1400 but other wide area push mowers are more, some double that. I currently have a Troy Built TB230 21" mower that is about 8 years old and I def got my money's worth outta it. It bogs down in the thicker grass and cutting is a struggle when the grass is a little wet. My gate opening is only 36" so I cant get anything to big. I have a lot of corners and tight spots that would make a push mower in the size I need easier then a rider IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Knight Shift
I ended up getting the Timemaster this weekend at Depot. I was able to score a 15% off coupon so that came in handy. Looking forward to the first cut now.
So has anyone ever put a undercoating on their mower deck to prevent grass from sticking to it? I read about people spraying some Dupont not stick dry film lubricant or paining it with a spray on graphite paint. If Im gonna do this the time is now while the mower is new and the deck is clean

 
I ended up getting the Timemaster this weekend at Depot. I was able to score a 15% off coupon so that came in handy. Looking forward to the first cut now.
So has anyone ever put a undercoating on their mower deck to prevent grass from sticking to it? I read about people spraying some Dupont not stick dry film lubricant or paining it with a spray on graphite paint. If Im gonna do this the time is now while the mower is new and the deck is clean

Man o man, and I thought I was obsessive compulsive about such things---and I mean that in a positive way. Who knew such a thing existed! Let us know if that works out. My tractor deck could use such a coating.
 
I ended up getting the Timemaster this weekend at Depot. I was able to score a 15% off coupon so that came in handy. Looking forward to the first cut now.
So has anyone ever put a undercoating on their mower deck to prevent grass from sticking to it? I read about people spraying some Dupont not stick dry film lubricant or paining it with a spray on graphite paint. If Im gonna do this the time is now while the mower is new and the deck is clean

I’m very interested in the outcome as well. Getting under the 5’-3 pt. hitch finishing mower and John Deere riding mower are a royal pain in the ass. Anything to lessen that rolling around on the ground experience would be most welcomed.
 
I ended up getting the Timemaster this weekend at Depot. I was able to score a 15% off coupon so that came in handy. Looking forward to the first cut now.
So has anyone ever put a undercoating on their mower deck to prevent grass from sticking to it? I read about people spraying some Dupont not stick dry film lubricant or paining it with a spray on graphite paint. If Im gonna do this the time is now while the mower is new and the deck is clean

There are multiple companies that make coatings and here are just a few that you can look into. Full disclosure I have not used or are indorsing any of these figured I would list them so people can do their own research. In the past I would just coat the deck with WD40. I do know people are now buying ceramic coating for cars and are putting it on the deck because of the nonstick nature. If you were to try this get a coating that you squeeze of of bottle and apply. I would not use the spray ceramic coatings because I think it is crap. Another trick people do is apply a good coating of paste car wax.

Whatever you chose to use make sure you clean the ender side of the deck real good (I know it is brand new) but there will most likely be a coating of manufacturing oil on parts under the deck.

Links for Deck Coating Products (In no specific order)


https://www.lowes.com/pd/GUNK-Outdoor-Gunk-Outdoor-Mower-Deck-Treatment-and-Protectant/5000877057

Amazon product ASIN B092G4W385
Amazon product ASIN B01BVA7CWQ
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Postman_1
It def takes me under a hour just to mow. It may only save me 15 minutes or so per cut but Im due for a upgrade/new mower anyway. When I combine it with edging, weed waking and the blower closer to 1.5 hours. Yeah the Timemaster is currently $1400 but other wide area push mowers are more, some double that. I currently have a Troy Built TB230 21" mower that is about 8 years old and I def got my money's worth outta it. It bogs down in the thicker grass and cutting is a struggle when the grass is a little wet. My gate opening is only 36" so I cant get anything to big. I have a lot of corners and tight spots that would make a push mower in the size I need easier then a rider IMO.
I bit the bullet and bought a zero turn, toro timecutter with myride. I love it and look forward to mowing now! It turns on a dime so obstacles are not a problem.
 
5 day average soil temperature in Trenton is a hair under 40 degrees. Still plenty of time to plan out your pre-emergent strategy.
I'm aiming for last week of march to put mine down if we continue to get the type of weather we've seen down in Delaware.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RUDead
I'm aiming for last week of march to put mine down if we continue to get the type of weather we've seen down in Delaware.
I think it’s not a set calendar date, it’s more observation. I’ve putdown PM anywhere from 3/15;to 4/10. It doesn’t hurt to be early, though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: miket007
I really prefer a fall seed but it you’re going for spring, I’d prefer mid March or late March and probably put down Mesotrione at seed time.

First spring in a new house. Soil is terrible with lots of bare patches. Lots of work to do but going away for 10 days in April so not sure I want to plant before I go. I might just plant before and after I go its so bad.

Improving the soil will start sooner than later.
 
Any experts here have thoughts on when I should be putting down Spring crabgress preventer. That was a huge issue of mine last year. I wound up killing my entire lawn last Sept and reseeded. Everything took well. Im hopefully to get ahead of crabgrass this year.
Any insight on products or when to put down would be appreciated.
 
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT