I’ve used United Seeds Inc out of Omaha Nebraska for years. For us living in the transition zone, they offer more selections of quality tall fescue than Hogan. They also offer a blend of tall fescue with a small percentage of bluegrass which has been a trend lately. Experts never used to recommend seeding tall fescue with bluegrass but now that seems to be changing.
He's the third person. I have used it personally with fabulous results in sun and shade. I just had some tree work done in the yard, and the tree guy warned me the lawn would be a little beat up. He asked me if it was sod. It's that good.
Give them a call, tell them where you live, and they will give you good stuff. They are good people who know grass.
I have not personally used Hogan seed but I know a number of very knowledgeable lawn folks who have and they rave about Hogan Seed and their expertise/service. I have used Super Seed Store, United Seed, and Pawnee Buttes Seed Co. Much cool season turf grass is grown in the Pacific Northwest and distributed from there to suppliers throughout the Country. To me, the most important factor is buying “Certified Gold Tag” seed, which has “Zero Weed Seed” and “Zero Other Crop” seed. Here is a good article on grass seed (not specific brands, rather, what to look for)
I personally don’t think you need seed 1” down, 1/4” is fine. You can put starter fert down at seed or a bit after. Goof call on the rain, I’d wait on it until after the rain since if we do get 2”-3” it can wash both fertilizer and seed away. Good luck!
I usually don't even seed 1/4" down. I throw it down ride over it with the lawn tractor, and Hogan seed is like Jack's Magic Beanstalk seeds--I have a lush lawn in a day! 🤣 Seriously, though- that is my technique, and probably wind up getting "enough" seed to germinate. One thing I have found is that more is not better, and I now go lighter on the seed application, whether I am throwing it by hand or using the spreader. I used to OVER seed when overseeding, which is a waste.
Great points! I just top dress usually about 1/8” to 1/4”. You’re right not to over seed. It’s not only a waste, it can create an environment conducive to fungus once the grass is established.
Yes, last summer with overseeding in the prior fall and the heavy rain, I had a bad case of fungus amongus. My lawn recovers nicely when there are 2-3' round dead patches from fungus, drought, etc, and I don't even need to overseed. I just finished overseeing and area where we had some tree work done and the machinery did me the favor of tearing up all the brown patches from the lake of rain and sprinklers not keeping up. Did a quick scratch up with my pull behind cheapo tine thing from Lowes, ran the overseeder at 12-13 and ran it over with the lawn tractor. Have to admit, it does not "feel" like enough seed has been dropped but that is the setting for my drop spreader, and I learned from past experience the downsides of overseeding.
The key is getting it established enough before the cold. Of course, that varies with grass type and the vagaries of weather. Here is a useful table. Personally here in Central NJ I like to seed late August or early September.
I held off and didn't do anything over the fear of massive rain. News is saying 2 inches i was worried seed would wash away. I'm not worrying about overseeding hell 60% over my yard is crap so i need an overhaul. Thanks for the tips as i'll be doing this project within the next 2 weeks.
Depending on the specific pre-emergent and rate of application, you should wait 3-4 months after applying to reseed. Always remember to read the specific product label. An exception is Mesotrione (the active ingredient in Starter Fert that also provides weed prevention) which lets you seed about 30 days after application. Note that it only gives you about 30 days of weed control so you can reapply after 30 days to extend coverage another. Month or so.
Don't want to derail this thread, but did not want to start a new one. @koleszar and @Jm0513 may be interested.
Oof, how did he break it? I have the SunJoe one. I know if you use an extension cord smaller then 12 guage it can put to much stress on the motor I believe. The go on sale all the time, you can probably get a good deal with the holidays coming. I picked up a new mower in February or March. Went for the 30" Timemaster. So far I am loving it. The price of that mower has gone up $200 since I purchased it
It probably is not related, but when I detatched, the following Spring was when I had the most weeds I ever had. Not sure dethatching is worth the trouble?
I had the Greenworks version of the SunJoe. Allegedly the safety switch that allows the bail to start up the motor broke. I still haven't seen it. My mower is a 20 year old MTD clone that starts hard & sounds like the piston rings are about to crumble. I'd love to get my hands on a 22 inch rear wheel drive Toro Super Recycler in all black.
It is my understanding that after dethatching you disrupt the so called barrier that would prevent weeds from growing if you used a pre emergent prior. So yes dethatching can cause many weeds to pop up.
That is just awful. I’m sorry to hear this. It takes a heartless person to destroy what another human took so much time and joy in creating.
What really helps this time of year is even if you don't get rain, you start getting the morning dews. That dew is enough to get the seed moist and allows it to germinate. Then once it starts growing it gets even more. Without the hot temps that moisture doesn't evaporate for hours. Our pastures always tend to green up this time of year.
I booked my appointment to rent an aeration/overseeder machine from Ironn Source on Nov 3 down here in central Delaware. I don't believe it will be to cold for the seed to germinate hell we were still getting 80 degree weather in late September fellas.
I think you’ll get some germination, the question is will be if it can get established enough before it goes dormant from the cold. What kind of seed? Turf Type Tall Fescue and Perennial Rye germinate quicker than Kentucky Blue Grass (but personally I like KBG). You could wait until January or February and dormant seed, but I admit I haven’t seeded in November so you may be fine (hope so!!!!!). In any case, good luck! If you don’t get enough germination and establishment you can reseed later. Fingers crossed for you! It’s always a bit of a guessing game.
Several older men in ct/del have told me for years they prefer to overseed in the winter. I don't think it will be to cold in November as they're predicting a mild winter for us. Delaware mix for my seed.
I forgot to add, I think you seeded at the perfect time. Last week of September maybe even a week earlier some years (not this year still way too hot) is when I had best results as well. Plenty of time for it to get established before it goes dormant. In Spring, I like to seed 3rd to 4th week of March depending on how temps are trending.
I'm doing more of pastures than lawns. For me as long as it's green, I'm happy. 😁 That timeframe is when I get the best growths. Late March and late September, plenty of rain and not so hot, so it stays moist longer. I can't do irrigation over that many acres. So, for you, you can do later because you can irrigate.
Long line (25'L x 3-4'W) along my side gardens in the back came in great...thick and green.
www.scotts.com
Scarred up areas from summer heat/drought have filled in nicely.
Long damn fall! Tried my hardest to overseed in September but all businesses were booked up with there eqipment and Home Depots 2 machines were out of commision. I was able to get a machine on Nov 4th and that shit kicked my ass lol never again I will pay to have someone do this every fall. After overseeding I put down starter fertilizer then began to saturate my yard and 7-8 days later the seeds sprouted which i'm really pleased about. I didn't have time to get up the dying crabgrass so i just went over all of it with the overseeder. I'm seeing little speckles in these areas but hopefully this spring the grass will really take over. Grass is a little higher then i normally keep it during the winter, i'm going to put some lyme down in January and can't wait for the spring to put some of these liquid fertilizers you fellas have been speaking of over the years...
