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OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread

What is the best seed for Bergen county.
I have been using Scott’s sun & shade seed for about 10 years and I’m no happy. It seems the shade area is ok but the lawn that gets sun all day dries out even though plenty of water is used. I do apply fertilizer 3-4 times a year.

Any suggestions?

One of top rated seeds is 4th Millennium Tall Fescue. It’s rated high for both sun and shade
 
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What is the best seed for Bergen county.
I have been using Scott’s sun & shade seed for about 10 years and I’m no happy. It seems the shade area is ok but the lawn that gets sun all day dries out even though plenty of water is used. I do apply fertilizer 3-4 times a year.

Any suggestions?

I use Johnathan Green Black Beauty Sun and Shade
 
So I have about .75 acres of lawn which I overseeded an existing lawn with 120 lbs of Scotts Turf Builder 4 in 1 Sun & Shade mix. I rented a split seeder from Home Depot- which cuts grooves into the lawn after the seed is dropped.

I seeded the lawn 7 weeks ago today and I’ve been watering with a sprinkler ~5-6 days a week. It’s filled in in very nicely, especially an area that died after a 40 ft tree dropped in the the early August storm.

The question is- can I stop watering at this point?
 
So I have about .75 acres of lawn which I overseeded an existing lawn with 120 lbs of Scotts Turf Builder 4 in 1 Sun & Shade mix. I rented a split seeder from Home Depot- which cuts grooves into the lawn after the seed is dropped.

I seeded the lawn 7 weeks ago today and I’ve been watering with a sprinkler ~5-6 days a week. It’s filled in in very nicely, especially an area that died after a 40 ft tree dropped in the the early August storm.

The question is- can I stop watering at this point?
Absolutely. Especially the past few days.
I seeded about 3-4 weeks ago, and I am cutting way back on watering.
 
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In my opinion, thereis a big difference between those two product. Prodiamine will last five months or so after applying. Pendimethaline only lasts a few months and should be applied twice, once in early spring, and again in late spring if you are looking to prevent crab grass during the entire season.
Sir I've never heard of Prodiamine but I usually use Scott's halt's crabgrass preventer. Is one better than the other because over the years of using the Scott's product it would normally last all summer/fall. But don't know what to expect with this new lawn full of weeds/crabgrass.
 
Sir I've never heard of Prodiamine but I usually use Scott's halt's crabgrass preventer. Is one better than the other because over the years of using the Scott's product it would normally last all summer/fall. But don't know what to expect with this new lawn full of weeds/crabgrass.

Prodiamine is called Barricade. If you get good results with Scott’s Halts, I would suggest you continue to use it. I believe Halts contains the Pendimethaline product.
 
Prodiamine is called Barricade. If you get good results with Scott’s Halts, I would suggest you continue to use it. I believe Halts contains the Pendimethaline product.
Thanks! I've been in CT the past 20 years and now down in Delaware which has a slightly different climate imo. I did a weed & feed 2 weeks ago and will probably do the Scotts winterguard or Scotts turf builder in late November. Just trying to feed the yard/soil as much as possible to prepare for next year...
 
I've stopped all synthetics. Going to try corn meal gluten for the crabgrass prevention. I've decided I'd rather not expose myself, family, dog and the environment to the toxic brew our culture has grown accustomed to. I'll learn to live with an imperfect lawn.
I've thought of that myself but this yard is such a mess I need to go the "big business" route until I can get things under control. This will be a multi-year project but my wife and I take pride in a nice yard and we have a acre corner lot!
 
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I've stopped all synthetics. Going to try corn meal gluten for the crabgrass prevention. I've decided I'd rather not expose myself, family, dog and the environment to the toxic brew our culture has grown accustomed to. I'll learn to live with an imperfect lawn.

I used corn gluten meal in 2019. It was somewhat effective but by mid-summer quite a bit of crabgrass and weeds were popping up and I had to do a lot of spot-treating. It’s better than using nothing but not close to being as effective as commercial weed and crabgrass control products. In my case it doesn’t help that one of my neighbors doesn’t use any weed control products at all.
 
I've stopped all synthetics. Going to try corn meal gluten for the crabgrass prevention. I've decided I'd rather not expose myself, family, dog and the environment to the toxic brew our culture has grown accustomed to. I'll learn to live with an imperfect lawn.

Bravo! Like an ex-smoker you will come to hate the chemicals. You will also notice you will see much more wildlife than your neighbors. You will see more weeds but your lawn will be thicker, have less bare spots and absorb water better without puddling up. Planting clover will help a lot if you're up for that.
 
I used corn gluten meal in 2019. It was somewhat effective but by mid-summer quite a bit of crabgrass and weeds were popping up and I had to do a lot of spot-treating. It’s better than using nothing but not close to being as effective as commercial weed and crabgrass control products. In my case it doesn’t help that one of my neighbors doesn’t use any weed control products at all.
Yeah, I expect to need to reapply a couple times. The commercial herbicides are also far from perfect.
 
I've thought of that myself but this yard is such a mess I need to go the "big business" route until I can get things under control. This will be a multi-year project but my wife and I take pride in a nice yard and we have a acre corner lot!
One problem is that once you go this route the lawn it becomes difficult to ever stop. I've read the herbicides and fertilizers destroy the natural bacteria and other flora required for a healthy lawn. I've used vinegar spray to keep the weeds controlled to give grass room to fill in the bare areas. Dandelions are the worst though. The roots go so deep it's nearly impossible to physically remove them completely.
 
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Okay, so 3-4 weeks ago we raked out the area in our back that I had rescued from the forest and laid down some grass seed over the whole area, bare or not. Now the biggest issue I have is since we got all that rain last September (2019), that area got overrun with moss. A lot of it came out when we raked it, that was the primary purpose for doing so, but there's still some there. What can I use to get rid of it? I had someone recommend putting down lime as one possibility since, according to them, moss likes acidic soil. What other recommendations should I consider?
 
One problem is that once you go this route the lawn it becomes difficult to ever stop. I've read the herbicides and fertilizers destroy the natural bacteria and other flora required for a healthy lawn. I've used vinegar spray to keep the weeds controlled to give grass room to fill in the bare areas. Dandelions are the worst though. The roots go so deep it's nearly impossible to physically remove them completely.
You still have to feed your soil, not just dump synthetic nitrogen pellets to feed the grass. And if you struggle with dandelions, you ain't seen nuthin' yet. Wait until you get a mat of kyllinga or quackgrass invading your turf.
 
Question gents, We haven't had a freeze in central Delaware yet though temps will drop to the upper 30s saturday and most of next week highs will struggle to reach the low 50s. I put down a weed&feed product last week of sept and I would like to put down another application middle of Nov. Is it worthwhile to put down this application if a freeze won't allow the weeds to digest it? Just trying to feed my yard as much as possible to get the roots to strengthen. If it's to late to use this I will use a Winterizer that just feeds the lawn...
 
IMO.....you may have missed the window for weed and feed. you need daily temps of 50 or better, by mid November that may not happen......At this point I would go with the winterizer.
 
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IMO.....you may have missed the window for weed and feed. you need daily temps of 50 or better, by mid November that may not happen......At this point I would go with the winterizer.

Even with Nov 4-16th being above 60 degrees? Would there be an issue if I were to put it down early in this stretch or stick with the Winterizer?
 
A ton of clover popping up pn my yard and perimeter in rocks. Anyone have any tips to get rid of clover patches.
 
100%
Free nitrogen, more drought resistant, more disease resistant, attracts pollinators, smells great, looks great, what's not to love?
We play in our lawn so having to constantly watch out for bees is not desirable. Clover is not the best option for us.
 
We play in our lawn so having to constantly watch out for bees is not desirable. Clover is not the best option for us.
I've never had a problem w aggressive honey bees. When they're feeding and their honey stomachs are full, their only concern is getting back to the hive.
 
A ton of clover popping up pn my yard and perimeter in rocks. Anyone have any tips to get rid of clover patches.
Bring it to my farm we just planted 100 lbs of it in with our seed for pastures, could always use more. My pigs, horses and miniature cattle will thank you.
 
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Even with Nov 4-16th being above 60 degrees? Would there be an issue if I were to put it down early in this stretch or stick with the Winterizer?

If you get those temps then ok, but otherwise I think you are wasting money
 
If you get those temps then ok, but otherwise I think you are wasting money
Yes sir in central Delaware and i'll be putting it down around the 14th after blowing the leaves and cutting the grass 1 last time. I still plan to put winterizer down in December..
 
Shout out to @phs73rc77gsm83 and @BellyFullOfWhiteDogCrap

You may recall that I literally firebombed holes in my lawn trying to get rid of some POA this spring. I overseeded several weeks ago. My lawn is all tall turf fescue and I used the same blend. I have patches of lighter green grass interspersed with the dark emerald green lawn. These patches do not look like some of the less mature seeded areas that have sprouted seedling. To me, it just looks like TTF that does not have the same color as the rest of the lawn. Any thoughts?

Tagged bellyfull so that he can admire the hints of clover interspersed in my lawn-I like the clover!!!

eVbdwhP.jpg
 
Shout out to @phs73rc77gsm83 and @BellyFullOfWhiteDogCrap

You may recall that I literally firebombed holes in my lawn trying to get rid of some POA this spring. I overseeded several weeks ago. My lawn is all tall turf fescue and I used the same blend. I have patches of lighter green grass interspersed with the dark emerald green lawn. These patches do not look like some of the less mature seeded areas that have sprouted seedling. To me, it just looks like TTF that does not have the same color as the rest of the lawn. Any thoughts?

Tagged bellyfull so that he can admire the hints of clover interspersed in my lawn-I like the clover!!!

eVbdwhP.jpg

Newer grasses often get darker over time so it’s possible the lighter grasses are TTTF that will darken over time. Having said that, it could easily be Poa annua or Poa trivialis. Don’t forget, “Poa” is the genus of many grass species, including the two I mentioned, Kentucky blue grass, and others. Is it shallow rooted and comes up easily when pulled? I’m guessing yes and so it could be Poa annua or Poa trivialis. Both have thrived in the recent wet soils. Poa annua is easier to control than triv but both are tough to eliminate.
 
Newer grasses often get darker over time so it’s possible the lighter grasses are TTTF that will darken over time. Having said that, it could easily be Poa annua or Poa trivialis. Don’t forget, “Poa” is the genus of many grass species, including the two I mentioned, Kentucky blue grass, and others. Is it shallow rooted and comes up easily when pulled? I’m guessing yes and so it could be Poa annua or Poa trivialis. Both have thrived in the recent wet soils. Poa annua is easier to control than triv but both are tough to eliminate.
I will hold off on my flamethrower. My lawn fertilizer guy (who I hired in defeat) said POA are cool season grasses. I'd rather not tug on the grass if it is indeed lighter TTF. But this stuff does not look like the POA that invaded my lawn this spring/early summer--that stuff grew in tufts, whereas the grass in the picture appears to be individually rooted blades.

I realize that I have become the guy in the neighborhood I used to roundly mock as "the lawn guy." I moved to my garage this weekend, neatly organizing nearly everything on pegboards and hanging a collection of mountain bikes on a hanger. Next move is to cover my garage floor with racedeck tiles, which are pretty sweet looking. Going to try to incorporate a red Block R in the middle:

 
I will hold off on my flamethrower. My lawn fertilizer guy (who I hired in defeat) said POA are cool season grasses. I'd rather not tug on the grass if it is indeed lighter TTF. But this stuff does not look like the POA that invaded my lawn this spring/early summer--that stuff grew in tufts, whereas the grass in the picture appears to be individually rooted blades.

I realize that I have become the guy in the neighborhood I used to roundly mock as "the lawn guy." I moved to my garage this weekend, neatly organizing nearly everything on pegboards and hanging a collection of mountain bikes on a hanger. Next move is to cover my garage floor with racedeck tiles, which are pretty sweet looking. Going to try to incorporate a red Block R in the middle:

yes, Poa grasses are cool season. I think you’re fine not pulling it or treating it right now. If it isn’t TTTF you can begin the 100 years war in the spring. Good luck with the lawn and garage!
 
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